Humla (Limi Valley) Saga Dawa & Kailash Trek 

 

Saga Dawa at Raling Gompa, Humla

Our once-in-a-lifetime journey to sacred Mount Kailash begins in fabled Humla in the far west of Nepal. From Simikot, we embark on a wild trek to the Tibetan border through remote Limi Valley, where the inhabitants of the upper reaches are Bhotias (of Tibetan descent). Our Limi trek takes us deep into unspoiled Nepal, where the diverse culture reflects the Silk Route trade of olden times; old men with weathered, Central Asian faces sitting smoking a hookah, tribal women of Rajasthani descent adorn themselves in mirrors and silver coins, Bhotias in their turquoise, coral and amber necklaces have pujas in their Tibetan Buddhist gompas and animism and shamanism exist as they have since the early days. In Raling, we'll be part of an elite group of Westerners to take part in their isolated but very important Saga Dawa Festival, held once a year on the full moon of the fourth lunar month of the Tibetan calendar to celebrate the historical Buddha (Sakyamuni)'s enlightenment. At most monasteries in the Tibetan Buddhist realm, sutras are performed, incense burned, prayer flags hung, prayer-poles raised and 'cham dances' (lama dances) performed. This is one of the most sacred, colorful events of the Tibetan Buddhist world, so have plenty of film and your prayer beads ready!

In this swath of the Trans-Himalayan plateau, the mountain scenery is spectacular; the Saipal and Nalakankad ranges dominates the horizons, wild-life abounds and the ancient trade routes from the Terai, over the Himalayas into Tibet, are still an important part of the hearty inhabitants' lives. Tibetan culture exists in its pure form, untainted by the Chinese occupation which has affected much of Tibet.

The Kailash kora, amidst the high plateaus of the Ngari region in western Tibet, is one of the most spectacular short treks in the Himalaya, crossing the Dolma La (5,600 m) to erase the sins of a lifetime. Camping beneath the north face of Kailash, we complete the trek with a myriad of Tibetan pilgrims, coming from as far away as eastern Tibet to acquire merit for humanity. After the kora, we continue west past the sacred Manasarovar Lake to the third most important pilgrimage site for Tibetan Buddhists, Tirthapuri Gompa.

Next stop, a bit of exploration in the ancient Zhangzhung Kingdom or 'Garuda Valley' along the Sutlej River, where the crumbling troglodyte capital of Kyunglung is all that remains of a Bon-po Kingdom that ruled over most of Tibet, Ladakh and the neighboring regions for over a millennium in the pre-Christian era.

With plenty of trekking, a bit of exploring and some good karma under our belts, we embark on an epic cross-Tibet jeep expedition via the scenic southern route, thus seeing much of far-western Tibet and the Himalayan range en route. We visit the resplendent gompa of Tashilhunpo in Shigatse and finally arrive at the exotic capital of Lhasa, where we explore this history-laden city and its ancient gompas and palaces.

Don’t miss this Tibetan journey deep into the 'Land of the Snows' ...

ITINERARY

Day 1 - June 2009 - Arrive Kathmandu

2 - Kathmandu

3 - Fly Nepalgunj

4 - Fly Simikot

5 - Trek Bargaon

6 - Trek Raling

7 - Saga Dawa Festival (Raling)

8 - Trek Burungtse

9 - Trek Kermi

10 - Trek Tsongsa Khola

11 - Trek Talung (over Nyalu La)

12 - Trek Chekjur (Jang Village)

13 - Chekjur

14 - Trek Halji Village

15 - Trek Tilchu

16 - Trek Mane Peme

17 - Trek Sher. Drive Taklakot (Purang)

18 - Drive Darchen (Tarboche)

Kailash Kora

19 - Trek Dira Puk

20 - Trek (over Drolma La) Meadow Camp

21 - Trek Darchen, Drive Tirtapuri

22 - Tirtapuri & Kyunglung (Zhangshung Kingdom)

23 - Drive Parayang

24 - Drive Saga

25 - Drive Shigatse

26 - Drive Lhasa

27,28, 29 - Lhasa

30- Fly Lhasa - Kathmandu

Day 31 - Monday, 29 June - Depart

Humla, Saga Dawa & Mount Kailash
The flight out to Simikot from Nepalgunj is a dramatic transition from in the flat, lush and steamy Terai to the high, arid and mountainous regions of Nepal. Our Yeti Air twin-otter flies only meters above soaring snow peaks, which spread in all directions as far as the eye can see; it's an exciting flight!

The Nyimba Valley, in Humla, is one of the least touristed regions of Nepal comprised of just four Bhotia (the Nepali name for Tibetan) villages. The inhabitants practice Tibetan Buddhism of the old (Nyimgmpa) sect, mixed with ancient forms of animism. In Raling, we'll be part of an elite group of Westerners to take part in their isolated but very important Saga Dawa Festival, held once a year on the full moon of the fourth lunar month of the Tibetan calendar to celebrate the historical Buddha (Sakyamuni)'s enlightenment. At most monasteries in the Tibetan Buddhist realm, sutras are performed, incense burned, prayer flags hung, prayer-poles raised and 'cham dances' (lama dances) performed. This is one of the most sacred, colorful events of the Tibetan Buddhist world, so have plenty of film and your prayer beads ready!

Trekking into the equally remote Limi Valley of Humla, we cross high passes and visit timeless villages and Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, with fantastic views of the Saipal range and the sacred Takh and Changla Himalayas. Humla was once part of the Karnali region of Nepal under the powerful, pro-Buddhist Malla Dynasty which ruled much of Nepal from the 11th century, but is now one of the poorest, least privileged and most remote regions of Nepal with limited access, only a few months per year. The region is part of the 'Trans Himalayan plateau', a region of snow-peaks alternating with thick vegetation, high alpine meadows, glacially-fed lakes, large rivers and undulating hills, with a wealth of flora and fauna. Snow leopards still exist in some numbers in these isolated mountains.

The population is equally diverse, being a mix of Tibetan Buddhist, Khasa and Rajasthani descent. The Khasa are an Indo-Aryan tribe believed to have come from Persia. There is a distinctly Central Asia feel to Humla, giving it an exoticism not found in many mountain regions of Nepal. The higher inhabitants of Humla are Tibetans (Bhotias) sub-divided into five sub-sects (Limi, Nyinba, Tsangba, Yultshoden and Trugchulung), all practicing a medieval form of polyandry. The Bhotias were originally pastoralists and traders, but have become agriculturalists over the past few centuries as political disputes close and re-draw age-old boundaries. The Khasas of southern Humla practice polygamy, and come from the tropical areas of the south. Living along side the native Khasa are Bauns and Thakuris, descendents of desert tribes of Rajasthan, who fled to Humla during the Mogul invasions of the 14th century. They still maintaining many of their traditional customs, dress and language, and worship gods not even remembered today in Rajasthan. Today, the Thakuris are the dominant group in Humla having been the stronger group politically and militarily. They ruled Humla under the Kayla Confederacy until the Gorkhas conquered Humla and other regions in Western Tibet in the 18th century. There has been much interaction between the Bhotias of the north and the Khasas, Bauns and Thakuris of the south through the ancient trade routes, a practice that continues to this day.

In the far west of Tibet, in the province of Ngari and the land of the ‘drokpas’ or nomads of the high plateaus, sits the legendary Mount Kailash, or Kang Rimpoche (‘precious snow-peak’, as known by the Tibetans). Kailash, on 'the roof of the world', is the most sacred mountain in Asia, venerated by Buddhists, Hindus, Jains, and followers of the ancient Bon religion. Tibetan and Hindu pilgrims have been making the 53km kora, or circuit, of Kailash for centuries. This circumambulation, clockwise for Buddhists and Hindus, and anti-clockwise followers of the ancient Bon religion, is said to erase the sins of a lifetime. To complete the Kailash pilgrimage one should bath in the sacred Lake Manasarovar, stunningly set on the Tibetan plateau bordered by the majestic Gurla Mandata. Mount Kailash itself is 6714m high, and with its four sheer walls, distinctive snow-capped peak, and valleys peppered with brightly-clad Tibetan pilgrims, is an awe-inspiring sight. From it flow four great rivers of Asia: the Karnali, the Indus, the Sutlej and the Brahmaputra, all of which drain the vast Tibetan Plateau.

Both of these regions, Humla and Ngari, have been dubbed the 'real' Shangri-La ...

Resources
Footprints Guide - 'Tibet'
Victor Chan - 'Pilgrim's Guide to Tibet'
Gary McCue - 'Trekking in Tibet'
Stephen Batchelor - 'The Tibet Guide - Central & Western Tibet'
Atsushi Kanamaru - 'Mapping the Tibetan World'
Steve Razetti - 'Trekking & Climbing in Nepal'
Charles Allen - 'A Mountain in Tibet' & 'The Search for Shangri La'
Caroll Dunham & Thomas Kelley - 'Hidden Himalayas'
John Snelling - 'The Sacred Mountain'
Robert Thurman - 'Circling the Sacred Mountain'
Lama Anagarika Govinda- 'The Way of the White Clouds'
John Avedon - 'In Exile From the Land of the Snows'
Patrick French - 'Tibet, Tibet'
Alexandra David-Neel - 'Magic and Mystery in Tibet'
Sven Hedin - Many books

Detailed Itinerary
Note that the trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on the trail conditions and the trekkers' acclimatization rate.

Early Arrival
Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m
You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. In the afternoon we'll check your insurance details (please have a copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go over gear and later get to know each other over dinner and a beer at the New Orleans garden cafe ...

Kathmandu
For those who have extra days to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will head out for wood-oven pizzas and a few glasses of wine at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 2 – Fly to Nepalgunj 150m
We'll have the early part of the day in Kathmandu, so take advantage of the morning to check your gear, do some sightseeing and have a leisurely lunch. We will leave sometime around 2 PM for the airport. We are scheduled on the afternoon flight to Nepalgunj, arriving just after sunset. Our scenic flight over the terraced hillsides and thatched villages of Nepal's green middle hills takes us to Mahendra Airport in Nepalgunj, the largest city in the western Terai. Nepalgunj, set in the steamy plains of southern Nepal, less than ten kilometers from the border of India, is a jumping-off point for many flights and buses into western Nepal. The drive to our hotel passes through this bustling town, a mix of modern and old Nepal. We stay the night at air-conditioned Batika Resort, which as a pool (so bring a suit if you want a swim). Decent meals are available at the hotel's restaurant (but not included in the room price) so we'll get together in the evening for an early dinner.

NOTE: Only breakfast is included at Batika Resort. IF we are delayed in Nepalgunj due to cancelled flights people are responsible for their own extra nights and meals in Nepalgunj. We can try to arrange single rooms if requested but they're not assured as there are limited rooms at Batika. Single supplement for Nepalgunj is $50 per person.

Day 3 – Fly to Simikot 2910m
We take another early morning flight 218km north to Simikot, the district headquarters of Humla, situated up on a ridge overlooking the Humla Karnali River. The flight is spectacular, cruising just over the tops of a mass of snow-covered peaks, and the landing equally exciting as we descend over cultivated, green fields surrounding the landing-strip on the jutting plateau. If the flight is on time, we arrive before lunch, and will meet out crew and head to our campsite where we will introduce you to our 'Kamzang Style' of trekking and get you set up in your Big Agnes tents.

Simikot is an atmospheric village, a mix of local Humla and Tibetan culture, and provides endlessly fascinating opportunity for exploring. You will feel the altitude, so take it a bit easy, and drink lots of water.
*** This is also an extra day in case our flight out of Nepalgunj is cancelled.

NOTE: The trekking itinerary and campsites may vary slightly depending on the trail conditions, availability of campsites and the trekkers' acclimatization rate. This Limi Valley part of the trek is semi-EXPLORATORY, so we will have some flexibility in the day to day itinerary.

Day 4 - Trek to Bargaon
We set off on the trek towards the border of Tibet! We are heading along the remote eastern trail towards Raling in the Nyimba Valley, where we will experience one of the most remote Saga Dawa festivals in the Tibetan Buddhist world. The Nyimba Valley is known for their unique practice of mixing Tibetan Buddhism, which shapes its philosophies and values, with an old form of shamanism, having a 'dhami' from each village who acts as an intermediary with the spirit world. Our first campsite is at Bargaon, along the eastern trail from Simikot leading to Raling.

Day 7 - Trek to Raling
After fresh-brewed coffee and a good breakfast, we set off towards the remote, scenic village of Raling, the site of the Saga Dawa festival, arriving early enough to secure a good campsite and get ready for the following day's festivities.

Day 8 – Saga Dawa
Today will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, a chance to witness the colorful Lama dances and rituals of the Saga Dawa festival at Raling Gompa, where hundreds of pilgrims dressed in their finest, traditional clothes will be in attendance to celebrate Buddha's birthday, the most important Tibetan Buddhist holiday of the year. Have plenty of batteries for your camera as it will be a full day of photography!

Day 9 – Trek to Burungtse 2800m
After the activities of the previous day, we'll leave Raling and take a shortcut back to the main Limi Valley trail, which heads north towards the border of Nepal and Tibet at Sher. We trek along ancient trails where their life-line - the cultivated fields - have been precariously hewn out of the hillsides. Campsite is at Burungtse after a day of many steep ascents and descents, so it will be a welcome sight, and hot chai will be brewing.

Day 10 – Trek to Kermi 2780m
Our lovely trail follows the meandering Karnali river as we pass shepherds herding their sheep and goats in a timeless manner, with their locally spun and woven sheep-bags loads with goods to trade at the border of Tibet. Another old tradition is the polyandry which is practiced in the valley, with which we might come into contact; this tradition helps to keep land in the family, and is an effective method of family planning as one wife shares many brothers. There are hot-springs near our campsite at Kermi, which we will reach early in the afternoon, so enjoy!

Day 11 – Trek to Tsongsa Khola
After a delicious breakfast, we follow the lovely Sale Khola (khola and kosi mean river in Nepali) through a wonderful, green valley, passing through pine forests and passing more donkeys and locals en route. It's a beautiful day of trekking, through meadows blanketed with Spring flowers, and by colorful rhododendron forests as we head towards the base camp for the Nyalu La which we cross tomorrow. The region turns rocky and more arid as we approach the pass and our campsite at Tsongsa Khola, near some local kharkas, or seasonal herding settlements.

Day 12 – Trek to Talung (over Nyalu La)
Pass day, so have a good breakfast for the gradual ascent up the Nyalu La pass, at about 5000 meters, where we might have a view of the sacred Mount Kailash and the snowy bulk of Gurla Mandata in the distance. We'll have a long descent to our campsite far down the valley below, at Talung.

Day 13 – Trek to Chekjur (Jang Village)
Another spectacular trekking day, with views of old trade routes into Tibet as we traverse this magical landscape. Our destination is Chekjur, or Jang Village, where there are hot springs nearby to wash off the grunge of the past few days of trekking. We'll have a rest and exploration day tomorrow, so a chance to really settle into our tents and the campsite for two days.

Jamie says of the villages in the Limi Valley:'The villages of Limi: Til, Halji and Jang were one of the highlights, with their surprisingly neat stone wall houses, they really are proudly independent and have really strong communities, but are absolutely medieval in looks. The houses are dense, stacked on top of each other almost, alleys under some houses. And Halji's gompa - wow! I have been told it is the oldest in Nepal and can quite believe it. It is in need of some work though. Structurally it seems ok on the outside, but tests have shown that the supports of the oldest parts are rotten.'

Day 14 – Chekjur Rest Day
Sleep late as we have a rest day today, and after breakfast feel free to get out and do some exploring of the traditional village and surrounding area, again having a chance to jump into the hot springs. A laundry line will be up for dirty clothes, and we'll have a hot lunch in the dining tent.

Day 15 – Trek to Halji 3600m
It's not a long walk to our next destination, Halji village, so we'll take our time and enjoy the scenery before arriving at our lovely, green campsite. There is an important Tibetan Buddhist gompa, reputed to be one of the oldest in all of Nepal, in the village, and we will have time for a visit after lunch.

Day 16 – Trek to Tilchu 4100m
Another short-ish day of trekking as we head along the well-used trail, climbing a bit, towards Tilchu, where we set up camp for the night. Tilchu is a wonderful and scenically located village high above the Humla Karnali, and we'll have plenty of time for exploring in the afternoon, possibly getting inside one of the houses for a cup of salt-butter tea. There is also a gompa in this village, so lots to do to keep us busy.

Day 17 – Trek to Mane Peme 3800m
The trail becomes more dramatic as we climb high on narrow, cliff-side trails high above the river canyon below us. The views are tremendous and vast, and we'll enjoy this great day of trekking. Our destination for the day is Mane Peme, where we camp near ancient mane stones sending out their Buddhist message into the mountains.

Day 18 - Trek Sher. Drive Taklakot (Purang) 3930m
Finally, heading to Tibet, and one last pass! From the crest, we’ll be treated to wonderful and extensive views of the Tibetan plateau, the Humla Karnali and Sher far below us. Descending after the pass to Ranipauwa, we slip and slide down loose rock, and then contour around a canyon back down to the Humla Karnali, at 3720m, to Hilsa. Just across the suspension bridge is a stone pillar that marks the Nepal – Tibet border. After the informal border crossing at Sher, we meet our Tibetan guide and Landcruisers for the one and a half hour drive to Taklakot, where the Humli people of Humla come to barter or sell their rice and wood for cash and salt. The road follows the Humla Karnali past Moto Gompa, an important 13th century Sakya gompa at Khojarnath, over a 4000 meter pass and through some small Tibetan villages before finally reaching Taklakot. Taklakot is called Purang by the Chinese, and is a large trading center for the Humli and the Tibetans.

Day 19 – Drive to Darchen 4560m (Tarboche)
We have a beautiful hundred kilometer drive to Darchen, during which, weather permitting, we will have our first view of Mount Kailash just past the Gurla La. The road passed through the isthmus between the holy Rakshas Tal and Manasarovar and crosses the Barka plain to Darchen, where we bed down for the night at a government guest house. We’ll have the afternoon to do some shopping at the Tibetan bazaars, pack for the kora, and perhaps take a short acclimatization walk up the ridge below Kailash to some prayer-flag festooned ridges.

Tarboche is marked by a tall flagpole adorned with thousands of fluttering, multi-colored prayer flags and kata scarves strung out in radiating lines from the pole. The sacred prayer-pole will be ritually raised as it is every year, and the direction the pole tilts, if it tilts at all, will foretell the future of Tibet for the coming year. It is a very significant ceremony, and monks, lamas and Rimpoches will preside over the rituals. During the festival, there is plenty of shopping as a good Tibetan never misses an opportunity to make a sale, and products from all over Tibet are available. And after the ceremony, devout Tibetans will gather for a piece of wooden prayer-pole, a 'sacred relic'. This is a day for photos, so make sure you are loaded down with extra rolls of film!

To the west of the Tarboche is the Chorten Kangnyi, and auspicious but somewhat repulsively-decorated archway. Perched above Tarboche is the Sky Burial Site of 84 Mahasiddhas, a spot revered for once having been the burial site for lamas, and containing numerous sacred springs, cairns, and power places. Pilgrims lie down on a flat rock strewn with old clothes, bones, tsampa bowls and personal belongings and visualize their death.

We set up our first camp either near the flagpole, or just across the bridge from Chuku Gompa, and have the afternoon to wander up the valley to Chuku Gompa, perched above the valley at 4780m, where pilgrims will be doing koras and rubbing parts of their body against worn areas of rock, shiny with butter, to start the kora off in an auspicious manner. Inside is a revered marble statue called Chuku Opame and a silver-inlaid conch shell with silver wings which was said to have flown here from afar, and a ‘trulku’, or reincarnated lama, resides in a cozy (but dung-smoke filled) room in the gompa. A blessing by the local lama is an extremely good start for the kora.

Day 20 - Trek to Dira-Puk 5160m
After a leisurely breakfast, we meet our team of yaks and the local ‘drokpa’ yak drivers who will escort us around the kora, yak bells ringing. From Tarboche and Chuku Gompa, we follow the Lha Chu river through a serene, meadow-lined valley, hopping over small streams, the west face of Mount Kailash towering above us. The river enters a narrow canyon with high, steep cliffs and spectacular waterfalls. Midway along the trek at the second prostration point the secret entranceway to the Inner Kora is visible to the right. One must complete 13 koras to enter inside. Continuing up the valley, the north face of Kailash comes into view just as we reach the 13th century monastery at Dira-puk. There are two routes to the camp from the convergence of the valleys, and we have the choice of crossing a small moss bridge and following a small path to the gompa, which has awesome views of the north face of Kailash, or continuing on along the main trail. We camp opposite the river from the gompa, immediately below the massive north face of Kailash. A sunset walk up to the ridge overlooking the north face is a must!

Day 21 – Trek to Mani Camp 4650m (over the Drolma La)
We now leave the Lha Chu Valley just as the sunrise turns the snow peaks gold and pink, and enter the Drolma Chu Valley, heading up towards the 5,630 meter Drolma La. Although the altitude makes the trekking difficult, the masses of pilgrims performing their acts of devotion along the way are continuously intriguing. Those extremely devout pilgrims prostrate themselves the entire way around Kailash, kneeling down and extending their bodies and hands in front of them in prayer (and marking the beginning of the next prostration). The trail is lined with sacred sites: butter, coin & flag-covered rocks, rocks with footprints of saints, rocks to climb over, under or through, hillsides of discarded clothes as offerings and other significant sites. It's a tough climb to the prayer-flag festooned summit, but it’s all worth if from the top as juniper incense burns and thousands of colorful prayer flags send prayers out into the surrounding valleys. We take the lead from the many pilgrims up top and stop for lunch before the descent to the east valley. Below us lies the Lake of Compassion, Thukpe Dzingbu, one of the highest lakes in the world. We will camp in the valley below the pass at the eastern face of Mount Kailash at a camp called Mani camp.

Day 22 – Trek to Darchen. Drive Trugu Gompa (Lake Manasarovar) 4540m
Another couple of hours of bright early morning trekking along a boulder-filled river brings us to Zutul-puk Gompa (4790m), with Milarepa’s meditation cave and imprints of his hand, food and head prints. A monk with a Polaroid takes photos of the Tibetan pilgrims in all their finery for 5 RMB! Afterwards, it’s an easy walk along some impressive gorges and around many mani stones and mani walls back to the Barka plains and dusty Darchen where our jeeps await us. The kora is finished - we’ve erased our sins, endured extremely cold nights and mornings, crossed one of the highest passes in the world, met countless fellow pilgrims, sent prayers of peace out to the world. Congratulations!

Good karma acquired all around, we pack up camp and drive along the beautiful bluffs near Lake Manasarovar to Trugu Gompa, spectacularly situated on a craggy cliff side along the northwest shores of the lake, and where the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche left behind a meditation cave and reputedly spent the last seven years of his life. We set up camp right on the shores for perhaps the ultimate Tibetan sunset.

Day 23 - Drive to Parayang 4750m
It's a 300 km drive through wild country from Lake Manasarovar to Parayang. We cross wide plains, shallow rivers and pass by a few local truck stops with makeshift tea houses. Passing the stunning Mayum-tso lake, we climb to the Mayum La, where we are rewarded by a magnificent mountain panorama. The scenery along this section is some of the most beautiful of the entire journey, and a distant storm drifting in back of Tibetans, horses and sheep is a surreal sight. The kids will be out at the camp sight to welcome us to our sand dunes camp site at Parayang ... as will the village dogs! This is a wonderful spot to watch sunset and roll down the soft, dun-colored sand with the village kids.

Day 24 - Drive to Saga 4600m
From Parayang, we drive another 255 km east, shouting 'Ki ki so so, Lha gyalo' (roughly translated 'May the gods be victorious!') as we crest the passes marked with prayer flags and cairns. The panoramas are some of the most beautiful on our journey, with the high mountains bordering Nepal on our right, and pebbly streams, small lakes, small Tibetan villages and soft hills surrounding us. We traverse this amazing Tibetan landscape, crossing more high passes, and the landscape gently transforms to a plateau of high-altitude desert sand dunes. There’s time to climb up to the wind-sculpted ridges and gaze over a bordering lake below extensive ripples of peaks. We camp near Saga, though time permitting, we might make it a bit further along towards Lhasa.

Day 25 - Drive to Shigatse 3900m
A long, wonderful day of jeeping through the high plains of Tibet, soft, beautiful and photogenic. Just before arriving in the dusty truck stop of Lhatse, we cross the Brahmaputra River, which originates from Kailash. From here, the roads are quite good, and usually paved, and our 157 km drive to Shigatse, past lovely Tibetan villages where the spring planting will be in full force, is a scenic one. Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet, with perhaps the best preserved but controversial monastery, the Tashilhunpo gompa. This Gelugpa gompa, home to the Panchen Lama, is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet and there is much to explore within its surrounding walls. We will take a few hours for a visit in the late afternoon or early morning before heading to Lhasa. We stay at a nice hotel in Shigatse, and head out for a good dinner and a few cold beers in the evening.

Day 26 - Drive to Lhasa 3650m
Another day of smooth driving through the wonderful landscapes of central Tibet and towards our final destination of Lhasa, one of Kim’s favorite cities in Asia, despite the Chinese presence there. We stay in the heart of old Lhasa at the beautiful, Tibetan-styled Dhood Gu Hotel near the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor square (or at a Tibetan hotel of a similar standard), where the character of the city is still very Tibetan. After a quick look at the Barkhor Square, most atmospheric at dusk (and early morning) when all the pilgrims are doing their koras of the square and Jokhang Temple, we will walk across the square to the infamous Dunya Cafe for dinner and a few much-deserved beers after sunset.

Days 27,28 - Lhasa
Over the following two days we visit most of the most important sites in and around Lhasa with our Tibetan guide. Late afternoons will be free for you to discover the endlessly fascinating bazaars, walk koras around the Jokhang with the myriad other pilgrims, or sit in the Barkhor square, immersing yourself in the exoticism of Lhasa. There is also the option of additional tours to places such as the Tibetan Medical Centre, Ganden Monastery or Tsurphu Monastery at a slight extra cost, although after our last few weeks, a bit of rest in Lhasa is usually the top choice.

The Jokhang is the holiest temple in Tibet and shelters the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue. Shuffle among the pilgrims, butter lamps permeating the air, and find gruesome Gods in hidden annexes. There is always a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. After walking the holy inner circle, complete a circuit of the Barkhor, the market surrounding the Jokhang, for good luck. It is the best market to shop for all things Tibetan, and just about anything else you ever wanted as well. Kim has lots of practice, and is happy to assist with any buying ... no commission attached.

Drepung and Sera Monasteries – Sera is one of the best preserved monasteries in Tibet, renown for its lively debating sessions in the courtyard each afternoon. Within its whitewashed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study. Drepung was founded in the 14th century and was once the largest gompa in the world with a population of around 10,000 monks. These days the figure has been reduced to several hundred, but there is still much of interest to see here, as the structure escaped relatively unscathed during the Cultural Revolution.

Norbulingka – Norbulinka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, set in a quiet and relaxing garden which used to house the Dalai Lama’s pets. One particularly interesting mural inside depicts the history of Tibet and all the Dalai Lamas.

Potala Palace - The magnificent white, black, red and gold Potala Palace dominates the skyline of Lhasa. It was the winter quarters of the Dalai Lama, housing jewel-encrusted gold and silver stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

Day 29 – Fly to Kathmandu
It’s a two-hour drive to the Gonggar Airport from Lhasa. The spectacular flight takes us right across the main Himalayan range and provides us with magnificent mountain views of most of the highest peaks in the world if the weather is nice. We have a final dinner together, reminiscing over wood-oven pizzas at the Roadhouse Cafe. Did we really just return from the fabled Kang Rimpoche in far-western Tibet?

Day 30 - Depart
Farewell! We take you to the airport for your flight home. We hope you had a wonderful trip into the heart of Tibet on the roof of the world; the journey of a lifetime!

Extra Days in Kathmandu
*** If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, a trip out to Bhaktapur or Patan, Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunset and sunrise mountain panoramas or a multi-day trip out to Chitwan or Bhardia National Parks. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Namaste & Tashi Delek!