GHT: Wild Ladakh
Kanji La, Shade Valley & Morang La

Another in Project Himalaya's series of BEST OF routes culled from our many exploratory treks over the past few years in Ladakh and Zanskar. We consider this wild Great Himalayan Trail route one of our best itineraries ever, an exciting and challenging trek through the remote canyon lands and hidden valleys of mythical Ladakh & Zanskar. This is a river trek, so bring good sandals with you!

From the remote village of Kanji, we follow sublime river valleys that lead over the high Kanji La to the Suru Valley and traditional villages, fortresses and ancient Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries) of the Zanskar River valley. From Stongde Gompa perched high above the Zanskar, we cross the formidable Stongde La to enter the remote Sum Shade valley, where we follow the turquoise, snaking Tsarap Chu River to little-visited Shade village, where we have a few days to explore and experience traditional village life.

Crossing back into remote canyon-lands and continuing down valley, we spend almost a week following the breath-taking Sum Shade river valley, with eerily deserted settlements and great campsites. We cross the challenging Morang La to reach the pasturelands of the Tibetan nomads of Rupshu. We'll camp with the nomads (and their sheep, goat and yaks) on the Changtang plateau, drink some salt-butter tea and experience their dying way of life.

 The villages, locals and nomadic settlements we encounter along the way are timeless, a vision of days-past in Ladakh and Tibet, and the campsites some of the most unforgettable ever. There is plenty of extra time built in for exploration, too ...

Join us for this exciting journey!

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - Friday, 19 August 2011- Meet in Leh

2 - Leh

3 - Leh

4 - Drive Kanji

5 - Trek Kanji Base Camp

6 - Kanji Base Camp

7 - Trek Kanji Sumdo

8 - Trek Pikdong Base Camp

10 - Trek Dibling

11 - Dibling

12 - Trek Lingshed Sumdo

13 - Trek Jingchan

14 - Trek Hanamur

15 - Trek Zangla River Camp

16 - Trek Stongde

17 - Trek Stongde HC

18 - Trek Suslantaktak

19 - Trek Sum Shade Zingchen

20 - Trek Shade

21 - Shade

22 - Trek Tantok Base Camp

23 - Trek Hormoche

24 - Trek Satak

25 - Trek Tsokmitsik

26 - Trek Morang La Base Camp

27 - Trek Sangtha Valley Camp

28 - Trek Sangtha Doksa Camp

29 - Trek Narbus

30 - Drive Leh

31 - Sunday, 18 September - Trip Ends

Arrival in India

NOTE: Flights to/from Leh are NOT included in the price or itinerary.

Everyone will need to arrange their own flight or overland trip to Leh. You can book your international flights all the way to Leh, Ladakh (IXL) which will ensure that your flight provider is responsible for hotels if your flight is delayed or cancelled. You might also want to come overland from Manali, breath-taking jeep safari, or from Srinagar, both some of the planet's most spectacular overland routes.

Email us your flight arrival details and have our contact details with you when you arrive in Delhi in case you need assistance. Kim will have her mobile with her, as will our agents from Dhruv Travels, so don't hesitate to call. We can help with hotels, flights, airport pick-ups and drops, sightseeing in Delhi or travels further to Rajasthan or Agra & the Taj Mahal. (See Dhruv Travels).

Detailed Itinerary

Although we try to follow the itinerary below, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in the Himalaya. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group's acclimatization rate or sickness.

The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure ...

Day 1 - Meet in Leh 3500m

Welcome to Leh, the capital of predominantly Buddhist Ladakh, in Jammu and Kashmir, tucked away amidst the Ladakh mountains, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If you arrive by air you'll feel the big jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If you arrive by road from Manali or Srinagar you'll have had some extra acclimatization en route, but will still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate with plenty of water, stay away from beer for a few days, rest and don't over-exert yourself. Even walking up the stairs of the guest house, let alone the Leh Fort, will make you breathless for the first day or two. Diamox is a good way to help your body acclimatize naturally; Kim will discuss.

We stay at the family-run Shaynam Hotel, more of a family-run guest house with a lovely garden in the center courtyard, located just a few minutes south of the Main Bazaar in old Leh town. Your rooms will be booked for you, you'll just need to advise Kim of your arrival time, whether by air or by road. Once everyone has arrived and checked into rooms, Kim will show you around town: the bakeries, cafes, tandoori restaurants, email cafes, banks and wonderful markets. We'll meet for dinner in the evening at the Ibex or Summer Harvest, a few of our favorite restaurants.

Days 2, 3 - Leh

We've scheduled two free days in Leh to acclimatize and to enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal's 17th century capital of Ladakh, once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 16th century Leh Fort and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Caravans of merchants from far-flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.

Kim will take you for a walk up the bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to 15th century Leh Fort and the red, MaitreiyaTsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at 16th century nine-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) - Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. There is a great cultural show around sunset at Soma Gompa.

We might wander the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. The precariously perched Leh Fort guards the eastern edges of the fertile valley. Sankar Gompa (17th - 18th century), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi's groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.

OPTIONAL GOMPA-TRIP: Arrange (through Kim, our Tibetan jeep-driver Wang Chuk or the Shaynam Hotel) a 'jeep safari' through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the 'cradle of civilization' of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange jeeps and/or a guide for a day's excursion.

To the East:Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde, Thagthok, Stakna, Matho & Stok.
To the West: Spiyok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong & Lamayuru.

OPTIONAL RAFTING-TRIP: You can arrange a day rafting trip on the Indus (easier) or the Zanskar River, approximately $25-$30.

Day 4 - Drive Kanji 3850m

After breakfast, we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of the trek at Henasku, a five hour drive through the historical, green Indus Valley. Leaving Leh we drive past the ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village and Phyang Gompa and village to the right. We continue along a cliff-side road past the intersection of the Indus River with the Zanskar River, the Zanskar villagers' lifeline during the harsh winters. Look out the back windows for a spectacular panorama of the Ladakh range, which extends westward to meet the Karakorum range in the distance.  About an hour later, we'll spot Basgo Gompa and Fort, a 500 year old World Heritage site, situated spectacularly on a spur above the Indus. Further down the Indus on the right is the link road to Likir Gompa, and to the left the turnoff to the 1000 year old Alchi Gompa, built in the Northern Indian style with wonderful frescos and murals inside the many prayer rooms. Just past Alchi is the link road to Rizdong on the right; soon afterwards we cross the Indus at Khaltse, and an hour later are rewarded with the awesome sight of Lamayuru Gompa perched magnificently on a hillside far above the Indus. Another hour will bring us to the intersection of the village of Henasku, from where we continue along a dirt road through a dramatic, narrow gorge to our first campsite at Kanji. Kanji is a village of approximately 20 families in the Kargil region of Ladakh, a wonderfully scenic whitewashed village with an old gompa as well as a newer gompa. The lively village provides wonderful photographic opportunities in the evenings.

We meet our crew and horsemen and will set you up in your Big Agnes tents, show you around our 'Kamzang' style dining tent and settle in for the evening with a hot mug of chai ...

Day 6 - Trek Kanji Base Camp 4345m

Our Himalayan trek begins: Venturing further and deeper into this hauntingly beautiful gorge, we trek along a small trail, past several small river junctions, heading towards the base of tomorrow's pass, the Kanji La. Trekkers have seen snow leopard tracks in this valley, so we'll keep our eyes open. We won't have such a long day as we're gaining altitude, and will need to camp before the pass.

Day 7 - Kanji Base Camp

Enjoy our free acclimatization day as the next day over the Kanji La pass will be very strenuous ...

Day  8- Trek Kanji Sumdo

Our first Himalayan pass! We'll be up with a steaming cup of freshly brewed French-press coffee before starting our ascent of the formidable Kanji La, 5270 meters. From the top, we'll have incredible panoramic views of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges, which stretch out as far as the eye can see in all directions. After a good rest at the pass, we'll start the long descent towards the river which marks the intersection between Rangdum and the Suru Valley, and Zanskar. We camp at Kanji Sumdo, on a bluff overlooking the muted colors of the willow-lined river valley, a lovely spot to set up our tents!

Day  9- Trek Pikdong Base Camp

Now we're back in familiar territory for a few days. We head up-river towards the Pikdong La, the opposite that we trekked last August on our Suru Valley exploratory trek. This is a sublime, diverse part of the Himalaya; our trek is a mix of gentle river crossings, broad plateaus, passing seasonal herding settlements (now deserted) and ascending narrow canyons. We cross the 5020 meter Pikdong La, again with spectacular vistas, and have a quick descent to our wonderful campsite at Pikdong Base Camp. Enjoy a wash in the clear stream, amongst the willows, next to the campsite. Last year we saw a herd of ibex standing statuesquely on the high cliffs above our campsite, looking down on us! A scene from the walls of a pre-historic cave dwelling ...

Day 10 - Trek Dibling

Another one of our favorite trekking days of 2008; we start the morning by climbing the small ridge to the south of our campsite and hiking past fantastic, narrow canyons with sculpted walls. We soon pass a large seasonal herding settlement (doksa) of the Dibling inhabitants, now with several older Dibling-pa tending the sheep, goats and yaks in their basic houses. We can take a peek inside one of these, perhaps picking up some fresh yogurt from a villager. Inside these dark houses, with beams of sunlight shining through the chinks their only light, locals live as they have for centuries, making cheese and butter, weaving their sheep and goat wool and chanting their Buddhist prayers with their mani beads in their free time. We continue along the small, willow-lined stream, crossing it several times, as we head towards the intersection of the Oma Chu and the magical village of Dibling. We pass through Dibling's extensive fields of barley and peas, the villagers out in the fields, and look up-valley to see the Dibling Gompa and chortens silhouetted against the canyon wall. Dibling, with its white-washed houses, mani walls and prayer wheel, exists timelessly, with dried grass, fodder for the animals and insulation for the houses, lining the roof-tops in preparation for their harsh winters. Our campsite ten minutes from the village is idyllic, one of our 'best of' anywhere in Ladakh, and the villagers see few Westerners so are very welcoming and genuine.

We have the afternoon to wander through the village at harvest time, visit the ancient gompa which guards the village from above, and wash in the gurgling river that runs by our campsite.

Day 11 - Dibling

We had to schedule a rest day in this incredible village and grassy campsite, as one day is not nearly enough to appreciate this remote outpost of Tibetan Buddhist life. Enjoy, wash yourself and your laundry in the river, take out a camp-chair and your book and spend the rest of the day exploring Dibling, having salt-butter tea with the villagers or wandering up the beautiful canyon beyond Dibling. Wildlife and birds abound in this region, so bring your binoculars and sit quietly for a bit. The horsemen often use our free days to re-shoe the horses, a wild event ...

Day 12 - Trek Lingshed Sumdo

We head up the valley towards Zanskar, following the willow-lined, sparkling Oma Chu for the entire day. We'll share the path with yaks, who are up in the valley grazing, and cooling down in the river. It's a lovely day, classic river-side trekking with time to stop and enjoy the visas on rounded beach rocks. The newer trail follows the eastern side of the river for much of the day, but we can also walk right in the river and zigzag across many times following the older trail, a fantastic way to spend a hot Ladakh day! One last river crossing and we reach our scenic campsite at Lingshed Sumdo, at the junction of the Barmi La route to Lingshed and the river and canyon route directly to Zanskar. Another great bathing spot!

Day 13 - Trek Jingchan

A bit more 'exploratory' further along the magnificent Oma Chu as we continue on through a narrow gorge passageway to Jingchan, on the western side of the Parfi La. We'll set up camp in an amphitheater surrounded by peaks, passes and valleys, in the spot where we often lunch if heading the opposite way. There is a small tea-house next to the campsite, run from an old man from Hanamur; he told us of the trail, newly re-built, through the canyon to Lingshed Sumdo. The locals all use this trail now to avoid the long, high route over the 4700 meter Hanamul La.

Day 14 - Trek Hanamur 3300m

We enter Zanskar today! And it's another pass day, so after a good breakfast we start up the steep switch-backs which lead us eventually to the crest of the 3900 meter Parfi La, a harder climb than it would seem. The views from the top are fantastic, with the Zanskar River gorge below us and the craggy, dun-colored Zanskar range spreading out in all directions. The descent is equally scenic as we drop steeply to the riverbed and trek along the Zanskar River to our camp at the two-house hamlet of Hanamur, where cold beers are waiting at the local shop ...

We watched the threshing of the summer's harvest in Hanamur last year, an interesting window into a dying way of life, and a good photographic opportunity. Welcome to Zanskar, the land of white copper.

Day 15 -Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp 3430m

Leaving Hanamur and crossing a small bridge just past the two houses, we continue along the banks of the Zanskar River along a trail lined with seabuckthorne bushes and Zanskar roses to the next village, Pidmo, a larger village which sees the winter trekkers who follow the Chaddar Route along the frozen Zanskar River. Pidmo is an interesting, traditional village surrounded by extensive barley fields, with a prayer wheel in the center of town. We take a right turn in town and cross the Zanskar River on a large, wooden bridge to the plateau on the eastern side of the river, staying high until we reach the large, walled Honya Doksa, the seasonal grazing settlement of the Zangla-pa (pa means people in Tibetan/Ladakhi), which oddly has several trees on its grounds. From here, we drop down to the river-side, trekking along grassy embankments towards our lovely riverside camp, which we call Zangla Doksa River Camp. The grass is green, the stream warm, so go for a wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp! The locals from Honya Doksa, will pass by in the evenings with their large herds of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar.

Day 16 - Trek Stongde 3600m

Climbing gradually out of our campsite, we soon reach Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village, and then follow the village road past the King of Zangla's house, where we had tea last summer with his relatives. The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress. The ruins of the 500 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of look-out towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally 'melted' the dzong, and it is now quite unsafe to enter, although someone always wants to go inside. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. Ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the trail and continue trekking to Stongde.

We have a few options for the rest of the day, one of which is to hitch a ride to Stongde (see options below). Today is the only day where we intersect the new road built through much of Ladakh and Zanskar. But we have ways to avoid this, and can spend much of the day 'off-road', passing through the still-remote villages of Tsazar and Shillingskyid en route to Stongde.

Our campsite at Stongde sits right below the Stongde Gompa (see below), and we'll be visited by some rather energetic village kids in the afternoon.

*** Kim and the staff will need to re-supply in Padum for the exploratory section of the trek which we start tomorrow from the upper Stongde Gompa trail. You have a few options for the day:

Option 1. Hike steeply up the traverse, a half hour's climb, to the Stongde Gompa for some wonderful views of the patchwork of Stongde village and the Zanskar valley. Stongde Gompa, approximately 750 years old, is one of the oldest in Ladakh or Zanskar, and one of the most colorful, perched precariously up on a craggy rock ledge, and surrounded by lovely birch woods. Kim has many friends there, Geshe Stenzin is one, who will probably invite us for tea and give us a tour of the gompa, including it's room of treasures in back of the oldest 'lhakhang', or prayer hall. We might be able to catch the evening puja in the butter-lamp lit prayer room, a surreal experience with resonating, deep chanting, cymbals, Tibetan drums, a step back hundreds of years ...

Option 2. Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum. You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. From Sani, you can take the back roads to Karsha Gompa, one of the largest and most scenic in Zanskar or Ladakh, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, worth a look if you're stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill in the direction of Stongde. And that should be a full day!

Day 17 - Stongde High Camp 4400m

Hiking the steep forty five minutes up to Stongde Gompa, we will listen to the resonating chanting of the monks, the drums, the ringing of bells and the clanging of cymbals at the morning puja, a sublime event. Afterwards we have only two hours of somewhat steep climbing to reach our high camp before the Stongde La, a grassy plateau which affords wonderful views down to the Zanskar Valley.

Day 18 -Trek Suslantaktak 4290m

A BIG pass today and a long, hard day, so don't skimp on breakfast or coffee before climbing the hill to Stongde Gompa and continuing past the rows of gigantic white chortens which line the trail leading to the Stongde La. From here, we have a gradual ascent to a Stongde doksa, probably now empty, after which we climb an another two hours to the windy and often cold pass. From the crest, we are rewarded with great views of the Namtse La, Zangla village, Stongde Gompa and village and the wrinkle of craggy mountains which make up the Zanskar Range. The descent is also long and gradual, following a rocky, scree-filled trail along the left side of the turquoise river which winds its way through the canyons below us. It's a spectacular walk; I remember being blown away by the beauty and colors of the hillsides and canyons a few years ago when we did this exploratory section for the first time. Three wonderful river-side hours and two river crossings later, we finally arrive at our plateau-top campsite, green willows lining the riverbanks surrounding us. We are at the intersection of the trails leading to Ichar and Phuktal, a route we didn't manage to complete last year. We might share the campsite with local Stongde-pa, bringing back their yaks from the doksas along this river.

Day 19 - Trek Sum Shade Zingchen 4100

A classic, beautiful trekking day, continuing to following the willow-lined river, with many chilly river crossings to keep things exciting. Don't forget your sandals for the next few days! This valley is called the Sum Shade valley, after the river junctions (sumdo) and Shade Village, the most prominent village in the valley, and one of the only ones inhabited these days. Many of the other villagers left their villages, their houses and roofs still filled with furniture, wood, dried grass and blankets, and re-situated themselves in houses built by the Ladakhi government to house Tibetan refugees. The Tibetans apparently didn't like the location, so the new dwellings were taken over by many of the Sum Shade inhabitants. Zingchen is a wonderful campsite high up above the river on a plateau, with spring water and wood for a campfire in the evening ...

Day 20 - Trek Shade 4100m

Yet another fantastic trekking day, which we start by trekking along the plateau, high above the river, sometimes dropping down to cross a tributary stream and then climbing again. There are many blue sheep in this area, in fact all the way out to Narbus, so keep an eye on the jagged cliff-sides above us, or down next to the streams if they have come down for water. We have a couple of river crossings, after which we stay down close to the river amongst the trees. Ascending again on a small trail cut into the cliff, we eventually reach the narrow gorge intersection leading up to isolated Shade village. Along the way, we'll pass the villagers working in the fields, happily greeting us as we pass by. There is a small school here which is desperately in need of supplies, so this is a good place to off-load school supplies.

Our campsite is just past Shade village, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for sunrise and sunset shots over Shade.

Day 21 - Shade

Shade village, not often visited by Westerners, is one of the high points of our trek, so we've scheduled an extra day to explore the village and the open grazing valleys north of our campsite. The village is a cluster of mud-brick houses, packed closely together, with corrals for the goats and sheep, grass drying on the rooftops, small vegetable gardens and an idyllic feel to it. We'll visit some of the local houses for a glass of 'chang', the Tibetan barley beer, yogurt from the nearby doksa or some 'churpi', dried cheese. Some of the locals stay up in the doksas north of our campsite, sometimes returning every few days and other times staying longer. The villagers rotate grazing their flocks and protecting them from the many wolves and snow leopards in the area!

Above our campsite, past a line of chortens, a trail leads to the high pastures, a soft, open area of brick, mustard and green hills, a great afternoon walk. The trail eventually leads to Ladakh, but its a remote and difficult trail that few villagers use these days.

Day 22 - Trek Tantok Base Camp 4200m

Leaving our Shangri-La via the same trail, we turn left at the river junction and follow the river to Tantok Gompa, a little-visited 750 year old gompa above the small hamlet of two houses, a tree and a watering hole. We should be able to find the key-keeper to let us inside for a look. We are headed towards the Nyalo Kuntse La, but won't reach it today. Last year we camped just past Tantok by the river, but this year we are going to continue along the willow-lined path (where we saw a red fox last year), climb a small crest and cross the tributary river on a small, new bridge. We ascend along a rocky, open trail towards the pass, and set up camp at a small high camp, next to a spring. It will be a cold campsite, so get your down jacket on!

Day 23 - Trek Hormoche 3970m

We'll be up early with a good breakfast in us for our two-pass day, a bit less strenuous than last year's version, but by any reckoning a long, hard day; but a fantastically beautiful and diverse one! It will take us a few hours of hard climbing to reach the 4800 meter Nyalo Kuntse La, where we will take a break and marvel at the incredible mountain vista that has opened up in front of us. A little Tibet, classic Ladakh and Zanskar!

From the crest of the pass, we look out on our second pass, the Gothurstap La, straight up the neighboring ridge. It would be easier if we didn't need to drop, traverse and switch-back up again, but alas ... So another 2 1/2 hours later, we reach the top of this pass, at 5150 meters. As if we hadn't suffered enough already today, we drop down the valley a bit to a small watering hole, and then are forced to traverse several ridges to a last crest, where we have yet another breath-taking view. It's all worth it, especially the next section, a bizarre moonscape, starkly beautiful, like nothing you've ever seen before. Geologists welcome! We reach a lone doksa, descend very steeply on a sandy switchback, cross a small stream and emerge from a narrow canyon to our incredible campsite right along the turquoise, sparking Tsarab Chu.

Before collapsing in the dining tent, grab a hot chai and take a wander through the newly planted willow-patch, look down on the semi-abandoned houses across the valley and try to take in this sublime, expansive landscape!

Day 24 - Trek Satak 4030m

A sandals day. These next few days are just mind-bogglingly beautiful, with no other trekkers in sight, and we will take some time to enjoy them as we trek. We leave our idyllic campsite and walk past the few small dwellings of Hormoche, which seems to be only a seasonal settlement these days. There is an 'chomo-gompa' or nunnery half an hour down the trail, now sadly unoccupied, its statues gazing blindly out on the empty assembly hall. We follow the eastern bank of the magnificent Tsarab Chu, heading southeast, on a high plateau, eventually dropping to the river to cross the large Zara Chu (which leads to Rupshu, and which we will see again later in our trek). Our trail contours, drops, climbs and passes through several seasonal settlements, now abandoned, before arriving at the deserted Munele village where we stop for lunch by a rocky spring, in the grass. Another few hours of beautiful, relatively flat hiking leads us to Satak village, which was deserted a few years ago, the inhabitants now occupying houses built for Tibetan refugees on the Leh-Manali highway. It's hard to imagine what prompted them to leave such a wonderful spot for their new haunts.

The village is now a museum; the last time we camped there, we explored the small alleyways, peeked into the windows and even borrowed some salt. Many of the villagers belongings are still inside, and grass and wood for the winter is still piled on the rooftops.

Day 25 - Trek Tsokmitsik 4100

After a cup of hot coffee, we have a steep, 350 meter ascent to start the day, but the trail is good, so it's not a difficult hike. We continue to follow the Tsarap Chu, side-stepping the grazing yaks, and contouring around several hillsides, keeping the river to our right. It's another day in paradise, a lovely five hours of trekking through our sublime, wide-open valley; just after lunch by the river, on some river rocks with our feet cooling, past the wolf trap, we descend to our campsite just around the corner. The campsite is another idyllic one right on the river, at the intersection to the Morang La trekking route, and we can set up our tents river-side and jump in for a well-deserved dip! Perhaps tonight even warrants a few glasses of rum ...

Day 26 - Trek Morang La Base Camp

Another wonderful day, we pass through the narrow canyon, with ancient fossil beds, and hike up a narrow river valley towards the Morang La. We'll stop before the pass at a campsite called Tranbok, and save the pass for tomorrow ...

Day 27 - Trek Sangtha Valley Camp

Up and over the Morang La and into nomadic country! It's an exciting day as we climb the steep trail to the Morang La, 5130 meters, which affords us wonderful views as usual, and descend to Takstago and Tozak before climbing again to the smaller Bong La, 4400 meters. Once over this crest, we are home free, cruising along to a campsite called Lung (or Sangtha Valley Camp), where we set up our tents for a rest. Lung is at the intersection of the Zara River, which we crossed after Hormoche camp, and another large river, a wonderfully scenic spot.

Day 28 - Trek Sangtha Doksa Camp 4500m

Today we head into familiar and well-loved nomadic territory. We follow the magnificent, sparkling Zara Chu past many river intersections and nomadic settlements (doksas), Zhabuk Yokma, Zhabuk Barma and Zhabuk Gongma to reach Sangtha, a spectacularly-situated seasonal settlement. To our right, a fantastic canyon of sculpted rocks leads to the Ladakhi nomadic region of Kharnak; Sangtha marks the intersection of the Ladakhi and Tibetan nomadic regions, a sparse settlement littered with goat droppings and discarded clothes which locals inhabit in the autumn.

The campsite is wonderful, however, IF the spring is running. If not, we will cross the Zara Chu (bring your sandals), and pass through the chortens marking the entrance to Spagmur and the exit from Sangtha. Another few hours of trekking brings us to the Tibetan village of Spagmur, perhaps with a herd of yaks grazing nearby. Look back across the Zara Chu to see 'The Five Sisters' peaks, the dwelling of the five mountain goddesses that live in the distinctly shaped range. Camping is equally idyllic here. Am I over-using this word?

And sunsets sublime. Keep your eyes on the hilltops next to camp for kyang (wild ass), Himalayan hare and blue sheep, which are common in this area.

*** Note: we camp at a new Sangtha Doksa campsite this year, a wonderfully scenic doksa oasis an hour down valley from Sangtha.

Day 29 - Trek Narbus 4820m

We start right up the steep slope heading towards the 4950 meter Spogmur La, having to contour around several hillsides to reach the top two hours later; from here, we are treated to wide open mountain views and we can spot way below the canvas and yak-hair tents of the Tibetan nomadic settlement of Narbus, where we'll set up camp for the night. Some relatives of Lobsang's, one of our guides, camp here every summer, and we can take a look at the inside of a nomad tent or two in the afternoon. Be ready, as we will be offered salt tea and fresh curd (yogurt). Narbus is a good place to donate your supplies or extra clothes; two years ago we had a meeting of a the women from each tent, and distributed evenly much needed school supplies and extras, and last year we bargained for yak and sheep-hair blankets and nomadic knives with binoculars, a Leatherman and some cash.

The evenings are a wonderful time of the day here; as the sun just begins to set, the nomads return to camp herding their hundreds of sheep and goats, and the yaks wander back to the tents, followed by the haunting yells of the Tibetans.

Note: We trek the spectacular high canyon route to Narbus this year, discovered on last year's exploratory trek.

Day 30 - Drive Leh

The trek is finished, and we'll relax in our jeeps and enjoy the spectacular five hour drive through Rupshu and the Indus Valley along the Manali - Leh highway; a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex or Summer Harvest.

Day 31 - Trip Ends

Our wonderful Himalayan journey ends today, sadly. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic 'jeep safari' back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We're happy to assist on all fronts, but no flights are included in our India treks anymore.

 

Jullay!