High Manaslu & Tibetan Tsum Valley

HIGH LAPRAK BARPAK ROUTE VIA GORKHA - REMOTE TSUM VALLEY - LARKYA LA

 

Kim's Kamzang treks are also listed on the Project Himalaya website ...

The High Manaslu circuit, a remote trek of cultural and topographical diversity, is known for its breathtaking Himalayan views, challenging terrain, mix of Gurung and Tibetan villages and high Tibetan Buddhist gompas.

Our journey begins in Nepal's steamy 'middle hills'; we trek north along the incredible, mountain-capped high route, through sprawling Gurung villages perched on high, terraced hilltops covered in rhododendron, to reach Kutang, or lower Nupri. Here the ethnically Tibetan inhabitants speak their own dialect, partly Tibetan and partly Gurung, and live a lifestyle that spans Nepal and Tibet.

Heading north into hidden Tsum valley, recently opened to trekking, is one of the highlights of the trip. Tsum is a fascinating and magical region of approximately 4000 ethnically Tibetan inhabitants who still maintain strong links with Tibet. The living Buddhist culture is virtually untouched because of their remote location and wildlife abounds. Tsum is a green and fertile valley of tightly packed, Tibetan-style villages, ancient Tibetan Buddhist gompas and spectacular views of Ganesh and Shringi Himals. We trek high into these valleys, having a chance to approach Ganesh Himal and camp with the lively nuns at the spectacularly-set Gompa Lungdang.

Trekking ever higher to upper Nubri, purely Tibetan, we share the trails with yak caravans. Here, trade with Tibet continues as it has for centuries and Tibetan villages have been forged from the wilderness by Tibetan refugees. Sublime mountain panoramas, dominated by Manaslu itself, are a highlight of the trek as are side-trips to Manaslu Base Camp, the valley above Samdo near the border of Tibet and the epic crossing the snow-covered Larkya La pass which leads to the Manang region of the Annapurna circuit.

And of course we camp in our special 'Kamzang' style ...

Trekker's Comments & Kamzang Style

The Manaslu Region
Manaslu, the 8th highest peak on the planet, locally known as the 'mountain of the spirit', is one of the most spectacular snow-peaks in Nepal, and the Manaslu Circuit, officially open for trekking in the early 90s, a cultural trek par excellence, without a doubt one of the best treks in Nepal. Oddly, it's also one of the Nepal Himalaya's least known treks, and happily doesn't boast of apple-pie lodges, sprawling trekking villages, internet cafes or Western coffee shops. A trek around the 'high' Manaslu circuit is a step back in time, a glimpse of pristine Nepali and Tibetan villages, a walk through a remote Himalayan paradise. The diversity of the trek, from the Hindu middle hills to the Tibetan high-country dwellers, and the awesome mountain scenery of the Manaslu Himal and surrounding peaks combine to make this circuit one of the most interesting, as well as one of the most challenging, treks in Nepal.

HW Tillman and his team were the first mountaineering expedition to explore the region in 1950, and the Japanese the first team to climb it in 1956; since then, Manaslu has been known as a Japanese mountain, and because of its sensitive location right at the border of Tibet, few western trekkers ventured into the region. Up to the 1840s, Kutang and Nupri were part of western Tibet and paid taxes to Dzongka Dzong in Tibet. Nupri only incorporated into Nepal in the mid to late 19th century when Gorkha power finally extended into the region. Manaslu was closed after 1959 due to Khampa guerillas encamped in Nupri.

Tsum Valley
Tsum Valley shares the honor of being one of the few sacred 'beyuls', or spiritual sanctuaries discovered by Guru Rimpoche, in the mountainous border regions of Nepal & Tibet. There are many traditional Tibetan villages to explore, ancient Tibetan Buddhist monasteries with exquisite murals to visit, sublime views of the little-known Ganesh Himal (seven peaks in all) and salt butter tea to be shared with the local Tsum-pas and their friendly Buddhist monks and nuns. Tsum is a fantastically green valley in planting and growing season, from March - August, and sees few other trekkers. The movie 'Unmistaken Child' recounts the true story of a reincarnated lama, called a 'trulku', who was discovered in the Tsum valley.

The Tsum Valley Homestay site, one of the original organizations created to promote this far-flung valley describes the Tsum Valley this way: ' These magical valleys are purported to be havens of peace, prosperity, spirituality and a sacred refuge for true seekers and believers. In the 17th-century, Tsum Valley became known as Beyul Kyimolung ... Tsum is a sacred and magical beyul. One of Nepal's most beautiful valleys, it is isolated from the southern lowlands (a five day trek distant) by deep forested gorges and cascading rivers, and from Tibet in the north by high snow-covered passes. It is home to 18 small villages and about 4000 people of the indigenous ethnic group known as 'Tsumbas'. They are primarily of Tibetan origin and practice Buddhism and Bon religions. It is surrounded by soaring Himalayan peaks, including the Baudha Himal and Himal Chuli to the west, Ganesh Himal to the South and Sringi Himal to the north. The northern terminus of the valley is bounded by three high passes to Tibet, including Ngula Dhoj Hyang (5093 m.) to the east and Thapla Pass (5326 m.) to the west. There are no airports, roads or motorized vehicles in (or near) the Tsum Valley. All travel is done on foot along time-worn trails that feature many ancient chortens and carved mani stone walls inscribed with prayers and depictions of deities. The Buddhist saint Milarepa is believed to have meditated in caves of this mountainous valley, and it is home to over 100 monks and nuns at Mu Monastery and Rachen Nunnery. Many residents of Tsum report having seen or found signs of Mehti, commonly referred to in the West as the 'Yeti' or 'Abominable Snowman'. Tsum Valley only opened to foreign trekkers in 2008. Due to this, along with its remoteness and inaccessibility, Tsum Valley and its people have avoided commercial impacts and changes for centuries. As a result, its unique culture has remained largely intact. Since it has not been visited by many travelers, there are very few established amenities such as teahouses, hotels, stores or restaurants along the trail'.

Sound appealing? Join us!

Detailed Itinerary
Although we try to follow the itinerary below, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in the Himalaya. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group's acclimatization rate or sickness.

The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure ...

Early Arrival
Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m
You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner we'll go over some of the logistics of the trek and get to know each other over a few beers ...

Day 2 - Kathmandu
A free day to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Drive to Rangnung Phedi 875m
We're up early for our scenic drive from Kathmandu along the Trisuli River to the starting part of our trek in the Gurung middle hills of Nepal, several bumpy hours past the historic town of Gorkha. Gorkha was once the capital of a massive kingdom which included parts of lower Tibet, and is dominated by an impressive 'durbar', or fortress palace complex, predominately Hindu with frequent animal sacrifices in the name of Durga or Kali in its several old Hindu temples. The fort is perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by nearly an hour of hiking up worn stone steps, often with other Nepali Hindu pilgrims. We'll stop for lunch in the town of Gorkha and continue on a newly built jeep road heading north past our old campsite of Arkole to the small hamlet of Rangnung far below tomorrow's destination, Barpak. Once at our grassy campsite, we will introduce you to our 'Kamzang Style' dining tent, your personal Marmot tent and show you around. Take advantage of a chance for a sun-downer while we're still low in altitude ...

Day 4 - Trek to Barpak 1915m
Have a good breakfast this morning as we have a long, steep climb ahead of us up to the incredibly scenic village of Barpak, situated perfectly on a green ridge overlooking the misty valley below. The new road started in 2009 built to connect Barpak and Laprak with Gorkha traverses our trail for the first half of the climb; we have to traverse this dirt road a few times as we climb through the dense forested hillside filled with rhododendrons, bauhenia and other large, leafy trees. Along the way we'll stop for a break at the Gurung memorial 'chautaras' or rest stops. These are specific to the Gurung people, who's religion is Buddhist with an animist/shamanistic bent. Two hours of climbing later we reach the local school at Mandaray followed by an entrance gate and several small tea shops. Continuing to climb gently, contouring around tilled wheat fields, it will take us another hour of more gentle climbing to reach Barpak village. Our campsite is set up at a private schoolyard in the upper section of the village and there is a small shop just below our camp where you'll be able to find a cold beer. Locals might stop by for a game of volleyball on the school grounds ...

Barpak is a large, Ghale (royalty) Gurung village, extremely clean, with a weekly market, wide alleys between the houses, grain and vegetables drying outside on the patios, several shops, a new school, a soccer field, viewpoints and flowers planted along the decks of these Gurung houses. Many of its men joined the Ghurkha Army, returned to Barpak with new wealth, and have built lovely houses. We arrive in time for lunch, and have the afternoon to wander the narrow streets of the village, a photographers paradise. Note the locally woven 'bakus', a sort of felted wool poncho which most men wear to keep the rain and cold away; the village is full of women weaving on wooden looms. The villagers often organize 'cultural shows', the proceeds of which go to improving the village, so we might be treated to one in the early evening. Across the steep valley the hillsides are peppered with other terraced villages. We are towered over by Bauddhi Himal, a high, snow-capped peak which makes for wonderful sunrise and sunset photos ...

Day 5 - Trek to Laprak 2200m
After breakfast we'll start on a picturesque climb out of town towards a small pass, with Bauddhi Himal providing a spectacular back-drop to the sprawling, scenic Barpak as we ascend the narrow ridge. Passing several chautaras, we reach grassy grazing kharkas and look out at the tilled hillside across the many deep valleys. Our trail is mostly stone steps, alternating with hard-packed dirt and stone trail, which meets the new road to Laprak near the ridge, officially a pass, which separates Laprak and Barpak. From the viewpoint half an hour before the pass we are rewarded with panoramic mountain views (along with herds of sheep grazing on the grassy hillsides), better than at the actual pass itself, at 2820 meters. Bauddhi Himal, Shringi Himal, Ganesh Himal and the Langtang range all span the horizon. The rhododendrons are blooming brilliantly in many hues of white, pink and red, lovely foreground for photos with the snow-peaks in back. Bring a wind jacket as the clouds often move quickly up to this ridge, and it gets cold at the pass.

Another steep hour or two of trekking brings us down to Laprak, just past the new 'kane' chorten, another large Gurung village of five hundred houses, perhaps not quite as scenic as Barpak but just as interesting. The Maoists used to stay in this village, and the villagers often offer some friendly indoctrination. We camp in the only campsite around, at the school in the upper section of the village, with several tea-houses nearby. Again, we have the afternoon free to explore the village below. Take a walk down the hill on the stone steps leading to the lower village and a look into some of the houses, several connected by wooden decks, all with symbolic murals on the mud-brick walls. Medicinal roots are often drying on the decks, and millet and barley are spread in low baskets. Again, many women will be on their standing or back-strap looms weaving the long strips of wool for their bakus or blankets. The villagers are friendly, and there is lots to explore in Laprak's winding maze of lanes.

Day 6 - Trek to Korlebesi 875m
Today is a long and classic Nepali trekking day of eight hours, all spectacular but a bit hard on the knees. We'll have an early start to have plenty of time for all of us, including the porters, to reach Korlebesi. Descending steeply on muddy stone steps through the maze of Laprak village, we pass old and young villagers out early on their decks, taking advantage of the morning sun, with wheat, barley and buckwheat laid out on straw mats. We continue to descend steeply, switchbacking through corn, wheat and barley fields to the river. After crossing the river on a new suspension bridge (next to the old, very rickety one), we climb equally steeply back up, past terraced fields of pink sorghum and rice, all the time far above the Macha Khola which we follow for most of the day. We contour around several hillsides on a narrow trail, barely visible at times, up to a small chorten just below the village of Singla. From here we're treated to views of Manaslu Himal, Kutang Himal and Shringi Himal to the north. We've still got a way to go as we trek through more terraced fields, climb and descend several dusty hillsides, climb on more stone steps and reach a plateau that seems to extend into an expanse of nothingness. We descend finally from here, and after about twenty minutes of steep stone steps reach the Gurung village of Korla. Still more downhill from here during which the landscape becomes more tropical, through more tilled fields, past a small hamlet with lovely rocks and finally we reach an extremely steep set of stone steps which leads to a long suspension bridge across the Nimrung Khola and to our campsite at Korlebesi on the Budhi Gandaki river. Look out for the local women weaving straw mats in the village. Our campsite is just below the village, next to the Nimrung Khola, again providing great swimming holes. We will probably get a visit in the evening from this village's cultural ambassadors, and perhaps have another show.

Day 7 - Trek to Jagat 1370m
A six plus hour trekking day today, starting with a walk through the village of Korlebesi and followed by an hour of walking along the river, by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, often climbing up stone steps, to reach the hot springs in the center of the small, terraced village of Tatopani. We have plenty of time to soak our grungy bodies in the gushing hot water streaming out of sculpted spouts. A gentle climb through the woods past some spectacular waterfalls and sculpted rocks brings us to a new suspension bridge across the Budhi Gandaki which we cross. We continue along a forested path and soon reach the large teahouse at Dobhan where the staff is having dal baht. After a short break we cross the Dhoban Khola on another suspension bridge Above Dobhan, the Budhi Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep cataracts. We'll share the trail with local sheep and goat herders, the youngest of the flock in rope baskets slung over their backs. More steep steps along cliff walls to climb as the river descends even more steeply and stratified river rocks decorate our route. It's hot and there will be chances to stop at fly-blown Nepali bhattis, shared with local farm animals, for a drink, snack and rest en route. The valley flattens a bit and after a short climb we reach a newer bhatti and campsite. From here our trail climbs high above the river, nearly 200 meters, only to descend to an 'eye' of the Budhi Gandaki River. The valley widens, the river makes a large S turn and then calms.

We'll stop for lunch at another camping spot and group of bamboo teahouses called Lauri just at the bottom of this climb, with another swimming spot on the Lauri River. An easy hour along the right banks of the river brings us to a long, new suspension bridge again crossing the Bhuri Gandaki after which we climb high, descend past the campsite at lower Jagat and then climb again on neat stone steps to enter our campsite in Jagat, the entrance to the Manaslu park. It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village, where proud villagers have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes. Our campsite is impressively clean and grassy, with cold beers and a shower available at the attached shop and lodge.

Day 8 - Trek to Philim 1570m
Enjoy our short day of less than three hours, a day to restock for the Tsum valley ahead. After descending a long series of stone steps back down to the river from Jagat village, we climb on slab steps along a terraced hill-side to the small hamlet of Saguleri, just past where we'll have our first view of the impressive Shringi Himal, 7187 meters high. Beautiful flame-leaf trees adorn the trail as we continue to climb and descend far above the river. We pass through the fly-blown paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children sell oranges in the Autumn and soon afterwards pass the local water-mill. Crossing the river again on a long, high suspension bridge at Gata Khola, we have a steep climb past green fields of wheat to reach Philim, the MCAP headquarters with a health post, a Japanese-sponsored school and a micro-hydro plant. We arrive at our grassy campsite in time for lunch, and have the afternoon free to wash at the darapani (tap) across the path from camp, to explore the interesting upper village and gompa, or sit and enjoy the afternoon at camp.

The upper village's Gurung inhabitants are very poor, and we often spend the afternoon tending to wounds and sick villagers who have commented that our western medicine is 'magic'. Notice the chorten with the Maoist hammer and sickle in the center of the upper village, the kane chortens with murals inside and the intricately woven baskets which both the men and the women craft. The exquisite gold heirloom necklaces that adorn some of the women come from Barpak. Be careful of village dogs as they do sometimes bite!

TSUM VALLEY

Day 9 - Trek to Chumling 2280m
We start our trek into the beautiful and remote Tibetan Tsum valley today. Leaving Philim along the main, paved trail we hike through corn and millet fields on a high trail over the Budhi Gandaki and soon pass Ekle Bhatti (which means one tea-house). Continuing on this spectacular trail, we hike through a narrow, dramatic gorge with towering walls, past a thundering waterfall to the right of the trail and more smaller ones along the way. White-faced langurs frolic in the trees above and remote villages cling to the opposite side of the gorge. Everything is green and in full bloom. About two hours past Philim, just as we reach the metal bridge which spans the Budhi Gandaki, we veer off the main Manaslu trail to the east, in the direction of the Ganesh Himal. Entering the steep gorge leading into Tsum valley, we enter a purely Tibetan region untouched by Chinese intervention except for by mutual trade. We have about an hour of gradual climbing above the Shiar Khola through a light forest, much of it being cut down for timber, to reach the tiny hamlet of Lokpa at 1915 meters where we will camp en route back to Manaslu. We'll have views of Shringi & Ganesh Himal from here. The staff will have lunch at the small teahouse, pick up the only green vegetables available in Tsum, and we'll continue on, descending to cross two newly built metal bridges over the intersecting Sukki Khola and Shiar Khola (questionable name). Once we reach river level we start to climb again, often steeply and on a somewhat exposed, switchbacking trail. The trails through the Tsum valley have been greatly improved over the past two years, so once precipitous and exposed trails are now safe and well maintained. We continue on this cliff-side, undulating trail for about an hour and then drop back down to a small tea-house at Ghumlung from where we'll cross the main Shiar Khola on a long suspension bridge. The hill-top village of Ripchet comes into sight across the steep-sided valley as we climb again on a nicely graded switchbacking trail to camp at Chumling, a lovely village to the right and above our campsite at Hotel Ganesh Himal. Great mountain views from our dining tent, so enjoy if you don't feel like exploring the village. There is a gompa in the northern (right) section of the village across the suspension bridge just out of camp.

Day 10 - Trek to Chhokangparo 3085m
Venturing further into the Tsum valley, we have a lovely hike of 5-6 hours in front of us today to reach Chhokangparo, a twin village which translates as roughly 'place of wisdom'. Just out of camp we cross the suspension bridge and descend slightly as the valley opens ahead of us with green, fertile villages adding color to the already spectacular setting. We pass several small villages and the tiny Dhampa Gompa (2365m), worth a look inside and meeting the old ani (nun) who lives alone at the gompa. Inside are hundreds of ceramic statues of Chenrisig, the Buddha of Compassion, which line three of the walls. This is unique to the Tsum valley as far as I know and we'll notice these walls of Chenrisigs in most of the Tsum gompas. Descending once again to the small village of Rainjam where we'll be welcomed by barking dogs, we take the left-hand trail up a bit, cross another suspension bridge and ascend to the small hamlet of Gho (2570m) where our friends next to the village tap might be weaving or spinning at their small house. Passing the small shop, we continue to climb on a good trail for another few hours to reach Chhokangparo, where we'll set up camp at one of the grassy campsites. This is my favorite village in the Tsum valley, a scenic and interesting village with friendly villagers and small lanes to explore. There's a well-stocked shop in town and a local phone, and a home-stay sort of lodge owned by the same couple. The kids are eager to come and play so save some energy. We might have the chance to visit our previous guide Tashi's mother in their modest Tibetan home for a cup of salt-butter tea, and perhaps we'll also visit another English-speaking friend, Namgyal, at his much nicer and lighter house. There is lots of weaving happing in this village as in most others in Tsum and Manaslu, and perhaps an opportunity to purchase a hook rug or other textile if you're interested. The intricate, colorful woven belts adorning most women's Tibetan-style chubas are unique to the Tsum valley as well.

Day 11 - Trek to Mu Gompa 3645m
Heading further north towards the border of Tibet, our destination for today is the somewhat remote Mu Gompa, the furthest settlement in the Tsum valley. Leaving Chhokangparo via the long mani walls, it's an easy hike through the lower section of the village (Paro) and back up past a long mani wall to a chorten across from Chhogu Gompa and village. Continuing to climb gradually past green barley and potato fields, we pass a school and soon reach Nyakyu village (3225m). It's mostly flat walking to the next village, Lamagaon, which is a similar style to the last with narrow alleyways between the houses. This is the open, predominantly flat section of the Tsum valley where one lovely village runs almost into the fields of the next village, the trails are peppered with mani walls and small chortens and the scenery is sublime. Just past Lamagaon (3220m) to the left are two small hermitages (Milarepa Piren Phu Cave & Chi Phu Gompa), and to the right across the river is the nunnery called Rachen Gompa. We stay on the same side of the river, pass through Phurbe and Pangdum, both with small village gompas and between them an unusually shaped large chorten which dominates the skyline. Soon afterwards we pass through Chhule village (3250m) and then cross the bridge to reach Nile village where the staff will be eating lunch. Many groups camp here and make a day trip of Mu Gompa, but we'll continue on for another two hours, more strenuous than the first four, to reach our camp just below Mu Gompa. This last section is more desolate and more difficult as we'll gain 400 meters in the next two hours to camp at our highest spot in Tsum. The trail sticks to the left of the river, passing still more mani walls and chortens as it climbs and contours towards the north. After crossing an old 'slip' and a small bridge over a glacial stream, we climb a bit more steeply past several larger chortens, with Mu Gompa just above us. After a chain of about five chortens we'll round the corner and see camp just below two herder's huts below the gompa.

We can either visit the gompa this afternoon or tomorrow morning. Last year we had snow all afternoon and evening so had a spectacular morning's visit to Mu Gompa, then with only three monks residing there. The gompa is Drukpa Kagyupa, affiliated with Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu, and filled with ancient, unrestored murals in the main lhakhang which has a very medieval atmosphere. The murals outside of the gompa, with the usual four guardian Bonpo 'kings of the four directions' at either side of the doorway.

Day 12 - Mu Gompa Exploration
Now that we've hiked all this way, let's take advantage of our remote mountainous campsite and do some exploring. Our friend Mads, who biked the Tsum Valley earlier this year, found his favorite views of the trip from a hill-top vantage point above Mu Gompa.

Day 13 - Trek to Chhokangparo
After visiting Mu Gompa we head back down the valley to camp again at Chhokangparo paro, which although easier as it's mostly downhill, still takes about six hours to cover. On the way back we can cross the river to visit Rachen Gompa, an ani gompa affiliated with Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu with a large number of nuns who stay during the summertime. We can also visit the two hermitage gompas on the other side of the river if we backtrack a bit. Once back at camp in Chhokangparo, we'll be well-situated for our trip to Gompa Lungdang the next day ...

Day 14 - Trek to Gompa Lungdang 3340m
It's a harder day than it looks on the map to reach Gompa Lungdang but worth the effort to get there for the experience of staying with the friendly nuns and the mountain panorama of the Ganesh Himal peaks surrounding the gompa. Leaving camp the same way we came, we backtrack down the large hill that we climbed a few days previously. When we reach the shop and our friend's house at Gho we'll take a sharp left turn and descend to the river which we cross on a small, wooden bridge. A short hike through light forest brings us to the hamlet of Dumje (2450m) (some of the young nuns from Gompa Lungdang stay and study here) from where we'll have an often steep three hour hike to reach Gompa Lungdang. The views are great along the way and there are plenty of resting points en route. Note that the first time you'll see Mu Gompa from a vertical prayer flag pole, it's still a good hour and a few hundred meters away. We'll probably camp in the slate courtyard of the gompa unless they've decided to build a camping platform. It's a good way to get to know the very friendly family of nuns, all from a nearby village, who stay at the gompa. There's a cozy kitchen on the other side of the courtyard and the nuns have a puja every morning and evening in the main gompa, very interesting to sit in on. Dinner and breakfast are usually a tsampa dhiro (mash) with timbur (mountain pepper) and stinging nettle sauce, and of course butter tea. There is also a smaller and older looking prayer room just to the right of the main gompa with some fantastic old murals, perhaps in the northern Indian style. And the views are superb!

Day 15 - Gompa Lungdang
We'll have a rest day at this wonderful spot, a chance to get to know the lively nuns better and go for a walk. We'll have an optional hike up the valley towards (but not all the way to) Ganesh Himal Base Camp which will be quite strenuous but spectacular. Or just sit, enjoy your surroundings, do some peak-gazing and enjoy the company!

Day 16 - Trek to Lokpa 1915m
Back down the steep hillside is easier for some than the ascent and should take us two hours. Once past Dumje, we recross the river, return to Chumling and then to Lokpa, a seven or so hour day. Lokpa has a nice, terraced campsite and cold beers at the shop and is a welcome sight after a long hike. Note the large, green village on the flat plateau high above the Budhi Gandaki on the opposite side. This is Nyak, a village of Gurung's who graze their sheep and goats far below Barpak and who we probably met en route.

Day 17- Trek Deng 1865m
A short day today to recover from the last few long ones. Leaving the Tsum valley, we return to where we left the main trail at the river junction and bridge and continue north into more Tibetan regions. We ascend gradually along a wide hillside through an open pine forest, and then cross the river two more times in the next two hours on small, very badly maintained bridges, Nepali style. They're rebuilding, so when we're reading this itinerary they should all be new. As we climb, look back for views of Ganesh Himal lV. After trekking through dense woods of rhododendrons, bamboo and wild flowers for over an hour, we pass the campsite and teahouses of Pewa, right on the river, where the staff will eat lunch. After another hour of easy trekking we leave the gorge and climb briefly to the small village of Deng. Deng is the start of the lower Nubri region called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri where the people are pure Tibetans. The Kutang dialect, called 'kukay', is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung and Nupri means 'western ridge' or 'western mountains'. We have views of Ganesh Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals. We camp right in the middle of the small village, which now has a few small lodges, and get fresh greens from the family that owns the land. It's worth a visit to the upper floor of their house above us, perhaps for a glass of local 'chang', or Tibetan beer, and for a chat around the hearth. It starts to feel like a piece of old Tibet again ...

NUPRI

Day 18 - Trek to Namrung 2540m
The valley is still steep-sided and impressive as we leave camp in the morning, heading for another bridge where we cross the river as we head to Nupri. We switchback steeply up to the small, poor village of Rana where the women usually have their looms out. Soon after, after more climbing through lovely woods of pine and crossing a small bridge, we reach Bihi Phedi, where there is a new lodge and views of Kutang Himal; from here we start to see mani stones (prayers etched onto wayside rocks, particularly mani stones with pictures of gods and goddesses), a sure sign that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. These particular mani stones were carved by stone carvers from Bihi, far above Bihi Phedi and famous in the region. We have three or four hours of trekking ahead of us, twice crossing the large Budhi Gandaki and twice over smaller tributary streams, staying mostly high with many ascents and descents as we walk through the gorge, all the time enjoying spectacular views. After four plus hard hours of trekking, just past the beautifully painted entrance kane and another bridge, we reach Ghap where again we'll note the elaborate mani walls with Buddhas in several asanas were carved by the famous Bihi stone-carvers. The egg-shells strung above the local 'tea-house' doors in Ghap prevent the evil spirits from entering the house.

*** We don't camp at Ghap but across the Bhuri Gandaki and up steeply up for 45 minutes is the village of Chaak, where the son of the tea-house and campsite owner in Ghap lives with his family. There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri. Across the river are great views of the village of Prok perched on the plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you can trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal base camp. A fire recently destroyed the gompa at Kwak.

Soon after leaving Ghap, we ascend for two hours through a dense, cool forest of fir, rhododendron, bamboo and oaks, crossing the now narrow Budhi Gandaki twice on small wooden bridges, and continue to climb, often on smooth, stone steps. We might spot danphe, the national bird of Nepal, or grey langur monkeys with white faces along the trail. As we gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are treated to increasingly broad mountain views. We eventually reach Namrung, the first village in Nubri, a region of purely Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. Our campsite at Namrung is small and grassy; it's a spectacular spot when the weather is good but can be chilly if in the clouds so bring something warm in your daypack. It's a long day for the porters.

Day 19 - Trek to Lho 3180m
Another wonderful and diverse trekking day awaits. Above Namrung, the valley opens out and there are extensive barley fields and bear watches to guard them (note the bamboo structures in the fields at the nearby village of Banzam). An hour and half of undulating trails later we reach the village of Lihi at 2840 meters, a substantial altitude gain. Lihi houses two old gompas, and is spread along the trail with billowing fields of barley, guarded by more bear watches. Lihi is known for its unusual architecture which we'll see further north in Nupri as well; apartment-like units with a common roof. From Lihi, you can head east to the newly opened village of Hinang, which also has an important gompa. We climb gently, descend, climb again and views of Ngadi Himal and Manaslu north open up in front of us. Soon we cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda Glaciers and reach the kane chorten and the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at 3000m. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of the house, and across the river to the ruins of an old Tibetan fort or gompa-hermitage. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to breath-taking views of Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon!

We set up camp in Lho, a lively, sprawling village adorned with many prayer flags, in the yard of a small lodge just above the new chorten that was built in 2009. The local household deities in Lho are called 'pholhas' and are revered at small altars in all of the houses. The small gompa just below our campsite worth a visit as is the important new gompa adorned with multi-colored prayer flags up the hill, next to the phone. If you want to call home, this is your chance. From camp, sunset and sunrise from the campsite are wonderful, with breathtaking views of Manaslu and Manaslu north.

Day 20 - Trek to Pung Gyan Gompa
We wake to a misty, golden sunrise and spectacular views of Manaslu and Manaslu North from the campsite. Walking through the upper reaches of Lho, with the snowy peaks of Manaslu rising behind the gompa, we pass billowing green barley fields, a long mani wall and large, old chortens followed by the kane chorten where we'll get the best views of Manaslu. We descend, cross a small stream on wooden bridges and then ascend through light forests next to a small river until we reach a small hydro-electric hut. From here we'll hike up through a once dense forest of pine, now nearly deforested. Locals from Lho and Sama Gaon have cut almost all of the large pines to transport by yak to Tibet where it will be sold and other Chinese goods purchased. Soon we reach Hong Sangbu Gompa, once a small village gompa and now dwarfed by the larger, newer gompa which will apparently be used for meditation. The gompa is near Musithang kharka, a seasonal herding spot, and has fantastic views of the surrounding peaks.

Leaving the gompa and barking dogs, we descend just a bit to an old mill where local women who stay in Shayla are often roasting barley and grinding it to make tsampa. Soon we reach the high, idyllic summer settlement of Shayla, where we've found pelts of blue sheep tucked away in the rafters of the now-deserted settlement. There are extensive mountain panoramas from here as well, and new lodges. Once past Shayla we have two hours of trekking through classic alpine scenery, crossing two small bridges over glacial streams. Our trail leads us past Tibet grazing settlements, the trail to Pung Gyan Gompa to the left, several doksas (kharkas), a large school and eventually past checkered fields of barley and potato to Sama Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it. We'll take a sharp left turn just before the school and doksas and hike up to Pung Gyan Gompa for the night.

Pung Gyan Gompa sits at 3870 meters and is a stunning walk up an often icy and slippery trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyan glacier past Tibetan 'kharkas' or seasonal herding settlements. There are unbeatable views of Manaslu near the gompa. The gompa was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953, and recently rebuilt. The complex includes a cave gompa as well, which affords even better views of the valley.

Day 21 - Trek to Sama Gaon (Ro) 3525m
Back down the valley to the school, it's just a half an hour's walk to Ro. Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks. It's a lovely village of mani walls, household monks, gompas and tightly packed rows of houses. Just above the village is the extensive Pema Choling Gompa which acts as a retirement home for many of the elders of Sama. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas (one in the lower village) date from this time, both having unique architecture, colorful doors and windows and built of wood. The Tibetan villages in this region of Manaslu have distinctive entrance gates (kanes), and they maintain an active trade with their co-religionists in Tibet over several high passes nearby (notice the Chinese brandy and beer for sale in the small shops). Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress) at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from Sama Gaon, as late as the 1940's until it was taken over by the Gorkhas in the late 19th century. Later, after 1959, the region was home to Tibetan guerrillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992. The economy is based on farming, herding and trading.

Take the afternoon to hike up to the old Kagyu Pema Choling Gompa settlement just north of the village. This is locally called Labrang, or Lama's place, and houses several lamas and their families as well as many nuns. The lamas and monks in Sama are all married, and there are about sixty of them. There are frequent pujas at the gompa and many prayer rooms with old murals and statues, worth at least an hour to explore. It's also endlessly fascinating to wander the dirty alleyways of Sama, it's stone houses with wooden decks and shingles a similar style to the ones in Lho and Lihi. Yaks and dzobkios share the narrow alleys, which have small waterways running in the middle of them and planks to bridge the two sides. If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving wool (phal) from Tibet as well as local sheep and goat wool into lengths of fabric which eventually become chubas.We often shop for hook rugs (den) and other Tibetan artifacts in the village, a good way to interact with the villagers.

Geoff Child's 'Tibetan Diary' is a must-read before (or after) spending time in Sama Gaon. We have it in our library.

Day 22 - Trek to Samdo 3850m
Another day of mountain views as we trek past craggy woods of Himalayan Birch during the walk up to Samdo, an easy three hours away. For those who want an extra excursion we'll make a trip to the lake below Manaslu Base Camp. Just north and off to the left of the trail leaving Sama Gaon, cross a small bridge, rock-hop over the stream and then head west towards Manaslu Base Camp. From any point in this glacial valley, as we ascend towards the Manaslu Glacier along the lateral moraine, we'll have stunning views of the lake, glacier and valley. We usually hike for about an hour up a steep trail to the right of the lake and stop for lunch at a green doksa.

After heading down, along the trail to Samdo, we pass by the left side of the long mani walls at Kermo Kharka and soon afterwards spot the entrance chorten of Samdo high on a bluff. We descend back to the Budhi Gandaki and cross a small bridge leading to a short climb to the 'kane' entrance of Samdo. The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village of Riu in Tibet after 1959 and built their new village here, at their old herding settlement. Like the people of Ro, Samdo inhabitants are Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500 years ago. Unlike the Ro people, they only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s. Since then they have established a trade with China and India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the region. We have lots of friends in the village so will probably be invited to visit and share some chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt-butter tea and perhaps do a bit of carpet or textile shopping. Take a walk around the village where the inhabitants live an essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and goats, training their horses and planting barley. There is a small gompa in a house mid-village which we visited in a previous year where a puja was held by several of the reincarnated lamas of Samdo.

We have a connection with a family in Samdo that Clint Rogers, who wrote the book about Samdo 'Where Rivers Meet' (also in our library), lived with years ago. We helped the wife, Nima Dikki, get over her four-year postpartum depression, and knew her husband Tsewang Gyurme and their kids well. Sadly Tsewang Gyurme died fighting a forest fire in January 2011 (see memorial in Kamzang Fund section) and Nyima Dikki is now trying to make ends meet by running a small local tea-house. We'll visit them later in the afternoon and anyone is welcome to come sit by the warm fire. The oldest daughter, Menden Samo, age 13, is now home helping her mother run the household ....

Day 23 - Samdo
Another rest and acclimatization day in this wonderful village below Manaslu, which towers above us. We recommend a hike up the valley directly in back of Samdo, with Samdo Ri behind it, heading towards one of their trading passes to Tibet, for amazing mountain panoramas including an in-your-face view of Manaslu itself. From left to right: Simrang Himal, Himal Chuli, Ngadi Himal, Manaslu, Manaslu North and Larkye Peak. To the right of the Larkye La which is just in front of us as we look northwest, we can see Cheo Himal and possibly Kang Guru behind the pass. En route up and down to these viewpoints we pass many lovely, slated herding settlements, called doksas, now empty, and purple and yellow primulas color the hillsides. We might also see more Danphe as they crash through the underbrush, and probably will see Lammergeyer and Himalayan Griffin soaring high above us. The prayer flags strung up on a distant hill, sending messages out into the Himalaya, make a good stopping point before returning to lively Samdo.

A longer option for the day is a trip to the Gya La ('large pass') to the north of Samdo, a more frequently used trading route to Tibet. where the border markers at the top says 'China, 1962.' You usually share the trail up to the pass with groups of Samdo residents and their yaks carrying timbers over the border to Tibet. True High Asia, and a long day!

Day 24 - Trek to Dharamsala High Camp (Larkya Phedi) 4460m
We leave Samdo on the old trade route towards Tibet (Sherpas from the Khumbu region used to bring their yaks into Tibet and then across the Larkya La down into Nubri on their extensive trade-circuit in years past), cross a small bridge, and climb through the ruins of Larkya Bazaar across from Larkya Glacier which tumbles down from Manaslu North. The bazaar was one of the trade markets, a seasonal tented camp, that flourished years ago. After three to four hours of climbing past more glaciers, through open plateaus of dwarf rhododendron and juniper bushes, with increasingly awe-inspiring panoramas, we come to the campsite at Dharamsala, the high camp for the Larkya La pass. We'll have lunch here while the staff sets up camp and gaze out at the views. You'll really feel the altitude and the cold here, so enjoy a more leisurely afternoon and keep warm. We're in blue sheep territory, so keep an eye out for herds of them grazing nearby on the barren hillsides. We'll have an early dinner in preparation for our pass crossing tomorrow ...

Day 25- Cross Larkya La (5140m) to Bimtang 3590m
Thank God for fresh-brewed coffee; it's dark and cold as we pack up our bags and tents in the morning and head off on our eight to nine our trek! After a short climb above the campsite, we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the Larkya Glaciers where we have views of Cho Danda, Ganesh Himal l to the east and then of Larkya Peak (6250m). We continue across the moraines of the glacier and past frozen lakes, often through the snow, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass, which should take us about four hours to crest. If there is fresh snow, we may see snow leopard prints from the evening before; it's also blue sheep, pika, marmot and Tibetan snow-cock territory.

The views from the top of the pass are wonderful, a mountain panorama equally stunning from both sides of our double pass. To the west Manaslu on the left and Phungi to the right. To the east, Kang Guru (ridge only), Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal and a bit further the views open up to included Gyagi Kung and the Annapurna II . After hanging our Tibetan prayer flags and yelling 'Ki ki so so lha gyalo' (may the Gods be victorious), get ready for a steep, often slippery drop to a trail following the glacial moraine. Bring your trekking poles, and 'yak tracks' if you have them. We'll lunch below the pass on smooth rocks surrounded by primulas and azalea bushes before continuing the descent. It's still three hours to go to our campsite, a long haul. A boulder-strewn descent lead us, finally, to Bimtang, which means 'Plain of Sand', the spot where the Samdo people keep their animals in the cold winter months. The three sisters of the 'Three Sisters Hotel' are on hand with chilled beer, and the evening clouds gather and turn pink behind the surrounding peaks. It's all worthwhile now ...

Day 26 - Trek to Tilje 2300m
A chilly but beautiful morning, as the sun behind the ridge hits the peaks around us long before the campsite. After leaving the grazing fields of Bimtang, we climb to a ridge over the moraine, soon afterwards crossing a boulder-strewn river, which recently flooded, on a wooden bridge. We ascend and then head down through open forests of brilliantly blooming rhododendron, juniper, birches and spruce past the doksas below Bimtang, passing Samdo-pa returning from shopping with their loaded horses. Butterflies flutter peacefully around us, hummingbirds dart from tree to tree, and white strawberry flowers and azalea bushes are underfoot. We'll lunch at a small tea-house, and then continue along the rocky river-bed and sliding hill-sides to several small, green villages, a sign that we've reached lower altitudes. Eventually, after a somewhat long but very scenic day, we reach the large village of Tilje, and our campsite in the lower section. The inhabitants are a mix of Manangis, Ghale Gurung and Chettris (Hindus), so have a unique architecture and culture, and eat a mix foods - dal bhat, buckwheat dhiro, tsampa and Tibetan salt-tea. The gorge ahead marks the land of apple pie, cold beers and hot showers, otherwise known as the Annapurna Circuit.

Day 27 - Trek to Jagat
It's an easy trekking day following the Dudh Khola through bamboo forests down to Dharapani, an atmospheric Tibetan village with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, stopping en route at the gompa in Thongje on the old Annapurna trail. Trekking south on the main Annapurna Circuit trail, we soon arrive at a long suspension bridge over which we cross the Marsyangdi River to reach the small village of Karte, re-crossing it soon afterwards. We continue along a high, winding, stunning cliff-side trail past several small teahouses at Khorte, and then switch backing down the steep trail before crossing the Marsyangdi river yet again. Before us, we see the wide plain and waterfall at scenic Tal, the last village of the Lower Manang region.

Tal means lake, and the area here was formed when the valley was blocked by a landslide and a dam formed behind. The lake has long gone and now the village of Tal sits on the river flats. Continuing along the riverside, we have a quick ascent to the entrance 'kane' of Tal, and after cresting the small hump, we descend steeply past the small teahouses at Sattale, loosing even more altitude as we continue down through the lush forest to the river and cross another suspension bridge leading to Chamje. a short hike uphill. Chamje is an atmospheric, 'wild west' village of traditional-style teahouses, often packed with saddled local horses. From here the road-building is full-on, so we'll continue as far as we can get, and hop in our jeeps! But before then, one more steep descent through the woods, looking across the river to large waterfalls, leads us to the lovely cobbled village of Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marsyangdi valley. Jagat isn't what it used to be as the road now passed through it, but it's still got charm and we'll appreciate staying in rooms and eating in the dining room for our last night on the trail ...

Day 28 - Extra Day
In case we need it on the trek somewhere ...

Day 29 - Drive to Kathmandu
Back to the lush, semi-tropical middle hills of Nepal. We'll have a bumpy drive to Besi Sahar, the old start of the Annapurna circuit, and then continue driving for five (plus) hours back to Kathmandu, so we'll try to head off early and will stop for lunch en route back. It is a different world back in the Nepali hills, and the gentle light sends us on our way back to the bustle of Nepal's capital. Finally, back at the Kathmandu Guest house and a real shower. A celebration is definitely in order tonight!

Day 30 - Kathmandu
A free day in Kathmandu for shopping, some sun in the garden of the guest house, shopping, cafe-ing or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for some 'koras' to give thanks for our safe journey back from the mountains. And sights we missed during the first few days in Kathmandu, we can catch today, and afterwards out for our last dinner together.

Day 31 - Depart
Sadly, we send you to the airport for your flight home ...

Extra Days in Kathmandu
If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunrise/sunset mountain panoramas, visits to interesting temple villages such as Changu Narayan, a few days at Barahi Hotel in Pokhara or a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Namaste & Tashi Delek!