Trekker's Comments & Kamzang Style

Detailed Itinerary
NOTE: Although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times
local trail or weather conditions or lodge accomodation may make slight changes necessary.
The trekking itinerary may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers'
acclimatization rates.
Early Arrival
You will be met at
the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look
for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the
guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room
will be ready.
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m
You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu
Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you
leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest
House, where your rooms are booked.
Kim will meet you at the guest house
and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel
is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes,
restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically
clad backpackers. Over dinner we check your insurance details (please
have a copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go
over gear and get to know each other over a beer at New Orleans cafe
...

Day 2 - Kathmandu
A free day to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many
steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views
of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis
of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa
watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims
from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional
gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags,
Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily
circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the
old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and
Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals,
marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred
temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys
run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing
saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating
- when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.
We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping
in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will
head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Fly to Lukla 2850m, Trek to
Monjo 2835m
A little after sunrise, we are indulged with a spectacular 30-minute
flight over the Kathmandu valley and along the snow-capped Himalayan
ranges to the airport at Lukla. After sorting out our loads with the
porters and breakfast at Eco-Paradise Lodge, we will start trekking.
The quaint village of Chaunrikharka lays below us; the trail takes
us above a rhododendron-choked forest, over the school and gompa and
past the checkered fields of barley, spinach and potatoes of the village.
Ahead of us is Karylung peak, covered in snow.
We are trekking along the Dudh Kosi
(river) along a centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It
is well traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan
traders (Khampas, most distinguishable by the length of red or black
tassel wrapped around their heads) conducting business between the
weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with Chinese and Tibetan goods
brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.

From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi,
while crossing a small, shaky bridge, we view the three sister peaks
of Kusum Kanagaru to the east. More beautiful walking over cobbled
trails takes us through Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani
stones and prayer flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the
Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for this magical setting. At Phakding,
a lively village a half hour's walk away from Ghat, we’ll have lunch
at Ang Sani and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge, well deserving of its name.
Passing by the small tea-houses servicing
the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge
over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river, climbing a bit to reach
the first lodge of Benkar on the left. Continuing over a small bridge,
we continue through the rest of Benkar, the first village to attend
the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, another climb, and we
reach Chumoa. One more small bridge and larger climb on uneven stone
steps, and we finally reach Monjo, where we stop at Kali and Chombi's
Kailash Lodge for the night. Monjo is a spectacularly situated Sherpa
village where Kim taught English years ago.

Day 4 - Trek to Namche 3450m
After a short walk past the school from Kailash Lodge with Khumbila (or Khumbu Yul La) rising magestically ahead of us, we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha
National Park. Descending to the river, we cross a long suspension
bridge to reach the hamlet of Jorsale, and then cross one more long bridge before continuing
along the sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded
rocks. Hike carefully as some of the ascents and descents on steep, stone staircases are a bit treacherous ...
Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer
flags to hang on the long suspension bridge over the confluence of
the Dudh Kosi (milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and
send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half
climb to Namche is broken half-way up the hill by our first view of
Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse, and will prime you for the bakery once
we arrive at this old trading village. You'll need the extra energy
to reach our guest house, Natang & Pemba's wonderful Moonlight
Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche, up a long flight
of stone steps, at 3500 meters.
Namche Bazaar, once called Nauje and now the most prosperous
trading village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater
surrounded by mountains. From here, we have perfect views of Kongde
Ri in front of us, Kantega, Thamserku and Kusum Kanguru to the
east and Khumbila behind us. Down-valley, the hills and valleys of
the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades
of grey.

Day 5 – Namche
It's Saturday Market day, so we'll take the morning to explore the
bustling market, a feast of colors, smells (not all of them appealing),
and colorfully-clad Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly
event. It’s as much a social gathering as a produce, meat and essential
goods market, so the atmosphere is spirited and lively.
Today is an acclimatization day in Namche. Everyone is free to relax and explore the crowded main streets of Namche, the Sherpa Cultural Center (photographic museum, fantastic), the reconstructed traditional Sherpa house (next door), the National Park Headquarters Museum (where you'll have easy views of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse+), colorful Namche Gompa with its own new museum and the Tibetan market. The Tibetans are often encamped in the center of town in a muddy bazaar (potato fields in the summer) touting their goods from China. Indulge yourself at one of the many bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. There are now new Mountain Hardwear and Sherpa gear shops as well as Tsering's older shop with a variety of real trek gear if you find that you're missing something (or just want to shop). Watch out for dzobkios and cows wandering the narrow streets ...
For some peak-spotting, climb steeply to a viewpoint an hour’s walk straight up the ridge (above the huge mani stone at the top of the steps), just past Syangboche airstrip, worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kangaru, Taboche and Ama Dablam.
Moonlight Lodge has a warm shower, a large library, beer and wine in the cabinet and delicious home-cooked food, so there is really no reason to leave at all if you're feeling lazy (or feeling the altitude). Later in the afternoon you might spot yaks wandering into the back yard of the Moonlight Lodge. They will be ours, with our yak-driver Kaila, and will accompany us for the rest of the trek.

DAY-HIKE OPTION:
Kim & Lhakpa will lead whoever wants on a loop through the Khunde and Khumjung valley. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light we'll hike up the steep hill in back of Namche towards the lively, old Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the old airstrip at Syangboche en route. On the ridge above the airstrip we climb to a large, whitewashed chorten at the yak-breeding center. From there, we have are fabulous views of Taboche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kanguru, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We may see some Himalayan Tahr grazing on the hillsides, and possibly Danphe and Chukkars. We will visit the Khumjung Gompa, home to the only existing Yeti scalp on the planet ...

The adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages in the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old, and are wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, and near a famous rock-mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam from this valley are breathtaking. Heading up the valley just a bit, we will visit Khunde's hospital, where Lhakpa's uncle Kami is the head doctor.
Next door at the Khunde Guest House we'll have lunch with the lovely owner who lost her husband to cancer a few years previously. Her lodge has perhaps the best mountain views from the glass dining room. Satiated, we'll hike through Khunde's entrance kane and back up the small ridge, where more Himalayan vistas await. Way down below us is Namche, and hot showers at Moonlight ...
*** From here up, the
acclimatization process dictates our itinerary, so we will have plenty of
shorter days walking.

Day 6 - Trek to Dole 4050m
Leaving Namche and heading back up the hill, we turn right at the large mani stone at the top of the village and hike along a wide trail to the prayer flag on the pole at the next corner. From here it's easy trekking high above the Dudh Kosi heading north, contouring around several ridges and past the large, newly erected memorial chorten where we'll be treated to fantastic views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam rising high above the valley. About an hour later we reach Tashi & Lhakpa's Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. Their pet yak will by in the morning for some grub, and Tashi has some of the best shopping in the Everest region, so we'll have a short stop here. Continuing along the main trail, we veer sharply left at the intersection of Gokyo and Tengboche, and take the steep trail up to the bridge which intersects with the old trail from Khumjung. We climb gradually, first on stone steps and then on a smaller trail, for another hour of so to Mong La, where we will have lunch on the deck of Boudha Lodge, perched spectacularly on this 4000 meter ridge. It's a wonderful spot overlooking both the Gokyo and Kala Pattar valleys, with a breath-taking panorama of peaks: Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Malan Palan, Taboche and the newly named Kamzang Peak. Phortse, one of the oldest villages in the Everest region, is perched at the intersection of the Khumbu & Gokyo valleys in front of us. The misty layers of the hills and valleys south of us are visible down-valley, as are Monjo and the bridge to Jorsale. Walk out on the ridge and look down on Tengboche Gompa on the ridge across the Dudh Kosi.
After lunch we descend steeply, through a forest of pine and rhododendron on a steep switchbacking trail and then on stone steps, to Phortse Tenga. Tenga means riverside, so after descending we immediately ascend again on the higher trail at the intersection of Phortse and the Gokyo valley. The route is beautiful, past frozen waterfalls, up cathedral-like stone staircases, through old rhododendron and Himalayan Birch forests, across small rivers and past tiny Sherpa settlements. The forest is home to several musk deer, shy creatures which peer out at us through the tangle of rhododendron. We arrive a few hours later, having had our first view of the 8000 meter Cho Oyu, at the summer herding settlement of Dole, where we stop for the night at either Kami's Himalayan Lodge or Urkien and Kanchi Maya's Yeti Lodge. Dole translates as 'plenty of stones', and anyone who has extra energy can cross the stony streambed and ascend either of the neighboring ridges for some good Himalayan views. It's a cold spot; the sun drops below the ridge at 2:30, but it comes up early in the morning to make up for a chilly evening. Huddle around the stove and enjoy a Himalayan evening ...

Day 7- Trek to Macherma 4430m
We continue up the Gokyo valley on similar tundra-like terrain with well-worn trails cutting paths in the hard-packed earth. We'll be gaining elevation as we trek along the ftrail high above the valley floor, Cho Oyu looming in front of us at the border of Nepal and Tibet for the later part of the walk. We pass some small Sherpa herding huts en route, the first a singular lodge above local Sherpa huts. and after a few more hours of trekking we arrive at the charming yak-herding settlement of Luza. This is one of the many seasonal settlements of the Khunde and Khumjung inhabitants; the next one is Macherma, which we reach 45 minutes later, having climbed steeply out of Dole to a set of prayer flags marking the end of the settlement, and ascending and descended once again to Macherma. Macherma is the name of a local female goddess, who we hope will bless our stay here!
We'll get some rooms at the quite luxurious Tibetan-styled Namgyal Lodge, and enjoy some good Sherpa cooking around the warm dining room stove. Try the 'thukpa'. Namgyal is half Sherpa and half Tibetan and plays the 'damye', or Tibetan guitar. Again, anyone wanting an afternoon hike can climb up the ridges on either side of Macherma.

Day 8 - Trek to Gokyo 4800m
Another sublime trekking day heading to Gokyo and the Gokyo lakes at 4800 meters. Another climb to start the day; we hike up to the prayer flags and cairns on the ridge and then descent gently with Fanga, a single lodge across the river from the seasonal village of Nha, a half hour ahead of us. Past Fanga where the trail narrows, we descent and then climb on stone steps on an often icy trail, with frozen waterfalls to our left. We reach the confluence of the Dudh Kosi coming from the Gokyo valley and the stream coming from the Nzozumba Glacier and cross this river on a small metal bridge. We've reached the idyllic Gokyo valley, with the small first lake, now partially filled with algae, surrounded by sculptural cairns just ahead. Ruddy Shelducks float on the far end of this lake as well as the next two. In the Gokyo valley the character of the trekking changes abruptly. The opaque powder-blue lakes are often on the verge of freezing over, and sometimes perform a Himalayan symphony of expanding and retracting ice. We have entered the grassy ablation valley running beside the Ngozumpa Glacier; we continue trekking on a rocky, winding trail for half an hour to the second lake and soon after have our first sight of Gokyo, a seasonal village and grazing area built beside the third, and biggest lake. Gokyo has become something of a Himalayan resort without the crowd – at least in terms of the comfortable lodges with sunrooms, unbeatable views, excellent food and warm stoves. A more spectacular setting is difficult to imagine, and our guesthouse, the Cho Oyu Lodge, perfectly situated on the lake-side, is a little piece of heaven. Dali Sherpa, our host, is always ready with a smile and a laugh, and with her son Tenzin and daughter Ang Tashi helping at the lodge you'll feel right at home. (We'll stay at the Gokyo Resort or Namaste Lodge if Cho Oyu is closed for the season).
Lured into the wonderful sun-room, it is easy to spend the rest of the day chatting with fellow trekkers, watching shaggy yaks amble their way in and around Gokyo (sometimes casually sticking their heads inside the lodges) and admiring the lake-side views. Wander along the lateral moraine overlooking the Khumbu glacier for sunset, just a ten minute walk above Gokyo ...

Days 9, 10 - Gokyo
We've scheduled two full days at this lake-side paradise ...
DAY 1: After breakfast you'll cross the small, glacial stream, jumping over the stone 'bridge' to get to the base of Gokyo Ri (5360m), just five minutes from the lodge. It will take you about two hours of switch-backing to reach the prayer-flag festooned summit; take your time as the views down valley past Gokyo lake are great the whole way up. From the top, you are treated to a spectacular, 360 degree panorama of the Gokyo lakes, the glacial moraine and the surrounding Himalayan giants; Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu among many others. To the west is the Renjo La (4515 meters) pass, the gateway to the Thame Valley and the Nangpa La, which the Tibetans cross with their yaks en route to Namche.
*** For those with extra energy, a nice afternoon excursion is a circumambulation of Gokyo lake; there is a beach at the other side, and then Buddhist and Hindu shrines just past that, a walk of 1 to 1 1/2 hours. And for sunset, don't miss a quick hike up the moraine ridge in back of the village for glorious sunset colors on Cho Oyu, turning pinker down valley towards Cholatse, Tarboche and Thamserku.
DAY 2: An option for today is a scenic day hike up the Gokyo valley, past two or three more glacial lakes, towards Cho Oyu. There are several trails that snake up this gorgeous valley, one emerging on the ridge overlooking the creaking glacier, another passing the eerily deserted fourth lake with it’s white, stony beach. The unobstructed view of Everest from Scoundrel's Point (4995m), just before the fifth lake, is reason enough for the hike.

Day 11 – Trek to Phortse 3780m
A truly epic day of wonderful hiking on high mountain trails which skirt the ridges on the west of the river. We trek back along the lakes, across the metal bridge and to a few minutes below the stone steps, where we cross the river on a small bridge to the small hamlet of Nha. We stay low and hike through old grazing settlements and soon after gradually climb back up, contouring on a high trail along the western side of Cholatse and Taboche peaks. The trail undulates, so although we lose 1000 meters during the day it's a challening hike. We pass lichen-covered rocks, ancient mani walls and large mani stones en route, and looking back we have a continuous unobstructed view of Cho Oyu and the glacial valley, and ahead of us Ama Dablam. There are several very traditional seasonal Sherpa villages, with yaks and Tibetan Snowcocks in the walled enclosures; we'll stop for lunch about four hours after leaving Gokyo at Thore, the second seasonal village. After lunch we'll have two or three more hours to hike, a few ridges topped with chortens, magnificent views of Taboche, and lots of wildlife, so enjoy the day.
We arrive early afternoon at Phortse, in time to stop at the colorful Phortse Gompa at the very top of the village. Phortse, a maze of small, walled lanes, traditional houses and now many newer lodges, is one of the oldest villages in the Khumbu. The village perches scenically on the promontory protruding from Taboche, which towers majestically above it. Many daphne, musk deer and blood pheasants live in the woods that border the village, and you can almost always see them early and late in the day.
We stay the night at Ba Nuru and Pasang's Phortse Lodge, which boasts one of the regions nicest dining area, a good sound system and TV, delicious food and a stocked bar, a good thing!

Day12 – Trek to Pangboche 3090m
You have a breath-taking hike ahead of us this morning, leaving Phortse on
the northeastern side heading towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river
gorge below. The trail skirts the high ridges of Taboche Peak, often
precipitous but always safe, and offering fantastic views around every corner.
Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is
close enough to touch to the east and our old friends Kantega and Thamserku
grace the valley below us. We climb a small pass, and eventually reach Upper
Pangboche, where you'll wander the old alleys and take a peek inside one of the
four oldest gompas (monasteries), approximately 500 years old, in the Khumbu.
Contouring high above the newer (Lower) Pangboche, pass a high mani wall,
some memorial chortens and the school before dropping down to the lodge in Lower
Pangboche. It's a lovely
village to stop in for the evening,
with views across the river to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp and the old
airstrip at Mingbo. You stay at the last lodge of Pangboche village, Sonam Lodge, owned by
Lhakpa's brother and sister-in-laws, Gyurme & Nima Lhamo, who also own the
newly built Ama Dablam Support Lodge a few hours up the Mingbo Valley. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners that you will meet
along the way who has summitted Everest many time. From the three-sided windows
of the dining room, you will be treated to a sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest,
Lhotse and Nuptse.

Day 13 – Trek to Namche
Continuing back down the valley, leave Pangboche by passing by the numerous trekking lodges and shops of Lower Pangboche and exiting the town through the open chorten (kane). Descend, on a beautiful and well-worn trail lined with ancient mani walls and whitewashed chortens with Bouddha eyes, down to the Imja Khola far below. After crossing the river on a new metal bridge (look below to see the old bridge), you wil hike on wide yak-trails through the hamlet of Devoche, passing ancient, moss-covered mani stones and the ani gompa (nunnery) of Devoche on the right. Stop for a peek into this old monastery, the equally ancient looking nuns often perform mid-day pujas. Soon after passing the nunnery you pass the few small lodges of Devoche and then ascend a relatively steep, switchbacking trail through a dense rhododendron forest for a good half an hour to reach Tengboche (4000 meters), backed by the massive wall of Kangtega and well-known for its large monastery, Tengboche Gompa. Tengboche is the largest monastic community in the Everest region and one of the
Khumbu's most important monasteries.
Take some time to visit Tengboche Gompa before the steep, hour-long descent on a dusty, hill-side trail to Phunki Tenga. From here, you cross the Dudh Koshi on a new
bridge and heading back up steeply through pine forests, and past small local settlements to Tashi and Lhakpa's Amadablam Lodge
at Kyangjuma. You'll stop for a scenic lunch on the terrace, gazing out on the majestic Ama Dablam. Don't miss the shopping; Tashi is famous for her jewelry which she also sells in Colorado in the summertime. From here, it's an easy hour and a half contour around many brushy hillsides to reach Namche, the Tibetan market, the Moonlight lodge, hot showers,
good food and a glass of wine or a cold beer.

Day 14 - Trek to Phakding 2680m
The descent of that long hill that you plodded
up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy on the way down. After one last steep hill to the National
Park gate, you reach the welcome sight of Monjo. Afterwards, it's just
another hour and a half back to Phakding along the same trails that you trekked up a few
weeks ago. We'll set up for the night at Paradise Lodge where we had lunch two weeks ago ...
Day 15 - Trek to Lukla 2850m
Again, backtracking on a trail where the difficult seems easy and the easy seems difficult! You will finish the trek
back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Eco-Paradise Lodge where everyone stays in
the new en-suite rooms. In the evening you will have yet
another Sherpa feast (after hot showers) and perhaps try some of Dawa's famous
Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room
is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return
there after the trek. Ang Pasang works for the airport, so you are in good hands
for your flight out the next morning.

Day 16 - Fly to Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as you fly out of
Lukla to Kathmandu early; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is
just as exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed
by bad weather, so we have an extra day in Kathmandu just in case.
In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu
Guest House, long, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped
at the laundry. In the evening, you can get together for the best wood-oven
pizza in town at Fire & Ice, followed later by coffee and drinks
later at one of Thamel's many cafes ...

Day 17 - Kathmandu
A free day in Kathmandu for shopping, some sun in the garden of the
guest house, shopping, cafe-ing or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for
some 'koras' to give thanks for our safe journey back from the mountains.
And sights you missed during the first few days in Kathmandu, you can
catch today, and afterwards out for our last dinner together. This
is also the extra day in case of delayed flights out of Lukla.
Day 18 - Farewell
Sadly, we send you off to the airport for your flight home ...
Extra Days in Kathmandu
If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunrise/sunset mountain panoramas, visits to interesting temple villages such as Changu Narayan, a few days at Barahi Hotel in Pokhara or a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.
Namaste & Tashi Delek!
