Trekker's Comments & Kamzang Style
Detailed Itinerary
NOTE: Although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times
local trail or weather conditions or lodge accomodation may make slight changes necessary.
The trekking itinerary may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers'
acclimatization rates.
Early Arrival
Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at
the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look
for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the
guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room
will be ready.
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m/4355'
You'll be met at the airport by Lhakpa Doma Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures),
so look for a sign with your name on it when you leave the airport. They
will bring you back to the wonderful Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you.
Enjoy the afternoon in the gardens, take a walk around busting Thamel and recover from your long flight.
Thamel is the main tourist area of Kathmandu, a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes,
restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically
clad backpackers.

Day 2 - Kathmandu
A free day to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many
steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views
of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis
of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa
watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims
from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional
gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags,
Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily
circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the
old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and
Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals,
marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred
temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys
run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing
saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating
- when theyre not posing for photos-for-rupees.
We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping
in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will
head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Fly to Lukla 2850m, Trek to
Monjo 2835m
A little after sunrise, you'll be indulged with a spectacular 30-minute flight over the
Kathmandu valley and along the snow-capped Himalayan ranges to the airport at Lukla. At Eco-Paradise Lodge near the airport
you will have your first Himalayan breakfast while the Sherpa guide sorts out the loads with the porters or yaks. And then you'll start trekking! The quaint village of Chaunrikharka lays below; the trail takes you
above a rhododendron-choked forest, over the school and gompa and
past the checkered fields of barley, spinach and potatoes of the village. Ahead
is Karyolung peak, covered in snow.
You are trekking along
the Dudh Kosi (river) along a
centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well
traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan traders (Khampas,
most distinguishable by the length of red
or black tassel wrapped around their
heads) conducting business between the weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with
Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.
From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing a small, shaky bridge, you will
view the three sister peaks of Kusum Kanagaru to the east.
More beautiful walking over cobbled trails takes us through Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and
prayer flags in the Khumbu. The
local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for
this magical setting. At Phakding,
a lively village a half hour's walk away from Ghat, you will have lunch at
Ang Sani and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge.
Passing by the small tea-houses servicing
the locals and workers in Phakding, you cross a long suspension bridge
over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river, climbing a bit to reach
the first lodge of Benkar on the left. Continuing over a small bridge,
continue through the rest of Benkar vilage. Another suspension bridge, another climb, and you
reach Chumoa. One more small bridge and larger climb on uneven stone
steps, and you'll finally reach Monjo, where you will stop at Kali and Chombi's Kailash Lodge for the night. Enjoy the attached bathrooms and solar showers, a rare treat!

Day 4 - Trek to Namche 3450m
After a short walk past the school from Kailash Lodge with Khumbila (or Khumbu Yul La) rising magestically ahead of us, we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha
National Park. Descending to the river, we cross a long suspension
bridge to reach the hamlet of Jorsale, and then cross one more long bridge before continuing
along the sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded
rocks. Hike carefully as some of the ascents and descents on steep, stone staircases are a bit treacherous ...
Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer
flags to hang on the long suspension bridge over the confluence of
the Dudh Kosi (milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and
send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half
climb to Namche is broken half-way up the hill by our first view of
Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse, and will prime you for the bakery once
we arrive at this old trading village. You'll need the extra energy
to reach our guest house, Natang & Pemba's wonderful Moonlight
Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche, up a long flight
of stone steps, at 3500 meters.
Namche Bazaar, once called Nauje and now the most prosperous
trading village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater
surrounded by mountains. From here, we have perfect views of Kongde
Ri in front of us, Kantega, Thamserku and Kusum Kanguru to the
east and Khumbila behind us. Down-valley, the hills and valleys of
the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades
of grey.

Day 5 Namche
Today is an acclimatization day in Namche. Everyone is free to relax and explore the crowded main streets of Namche, the Sherpa Cultural Center (photographic museum, fantastic), the reconstructed traditional Sherpa house (next door), the National Park Headquarters Museum (where you'll have easy views of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse+), colorful Namche Gompa with its own new museum and the Tibetan market. The Tibetans are often encamped in the center of town in a muddy bazaar (potato fields in the summer) touting their goods from China. Indulge yourself at one of the many bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. There are now new Mountain Hardwear and Sherpa gear shops as well as Tsering's older shop with a variety of real trek gear if you find that you're missing something (or just want to shop). Watch out for dzobkios and cows wandering the narrow streets ...
For some peak-spotting, climb steeply to a viewpoint an hour’s walk straight up the ridge (above the huge mani stone at the top of the steps), just past Syangboche airstrip, worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kangaru, Taboche and Ama Dablam.
Moonlight Lodge has a warm shower, a large library, beer and wine in the cabinet and delicious home-cooked food, so there is really no reason to leave at all if you're feeling lazy (or feeling the altitude). Later in the afternoon you might spot yaks wandering into the back yard of the Moonlight Lodge. They will be ours, with our yak-driver Kaila, and will accompany us for the rest of the trek.
*** If it's Saturday Market day we'll take the morning to explore the bustling market, a feast of colors, smells (not all of them appealing), and colorfully-clad Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly event. It’s as much a social gathering as a produce, meat and essential goods market, so the atmosphere is spirited and lively.

DAY-HIKE OPTION:
Kim & Lhakpa will lead whoever wants on a loop through the Khunde and Khumjung valley. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light we'll hike up the steep hill in back of Namche towards the lively, old Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the old airstrip at Syangboche en route. On the ridge above the airstrip we climb to a large, whitewashed chorten at the yak-breeding center. From there, we have are fabulous views of Taboche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kanguru, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We may see some Himalayan Tahr grazing on the hillsides, and possibly Danphe and Chukkars. We will visit the Khumjung Gompa, home to the only existing Yeti scalp on the planet ...

The adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages in the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old, and are wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, and near a famous rock-mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam from this valley are breathtaking. Heading up the valley just a bit, we will visit Khunde's hospital, where Lhakpa's uncle Kami is the head doctor.
Next door at the Khunde Guest House we'll have lunch with the lovely owner who lost her husband to cancer a few years previously. Her lodge has perhaps the best mountain views from the glass dining room. Satiated, we'll hike through Khunde's entrance kane and back up the small ridge, where more Himalayan vistas await. Way down below us is Namche, and hot showers at Moonlight ...
*** From here up, the acclimatization process dictates our itinerary, so we will have plenty of shorter days walking.

Day 6 - Trek to Phortse 3900m
It is an easy two hour's walk from Namche, contouring around several
hillsides high above the Dudh Kosi below, to Tashi &
Lhakpa's Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma,
perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name.
Their pet yak will by in the morning for some grub, and Tashi has the best
shopping in the Everest region, so we'll have a short stop here. Continuing
along the main trail, we veer left at the intersection to Gokyo and take the
steep trail up to the bridge which intersects with the old trail from Khumjung,
and climb gradually for another hour of so to Mong La, where we will have a
well-deserved lunch (with fantastic views) at a small lodge perched
spectacularly on this 4000 meter pass.
We'll have a steep descent to Phortse Tenga followed by a short but steep
climb up to Phortse, one of the first villages of the Khumbu region, at 3800
meters. On the way up, keep your eyes open and cameras out as there are many
musk deer, Danphe and Blood Pheasants hiding in the rhododendron forests
bordering the trail and the village. The Danphe hang out digging for potatoes in
the lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings. We'll bunk down
for the night at one of everyone's favorite lodges, the Phortse Lodge, which
boasts a wonderful dining room, great views and good electricity for re-charging
and perhaps watching a movie. The lodge is run by a lovely Sherpa couple, the
husband a many-time Everest climber and one of the main participants in the
Phortse Climbing School, founded by Conrad Anchor and his wife.

Day 7 Trek to Pangboche 3090m
We have a breath-taking hike in store for us this morning, leaving Phortse on
the northeastern side heading towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river
gorge below. Our trail skirts the high ridges of Tarboche Peak, often
precipitous but always safe, and offering fantastic views around every corner.
Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is
close enough to touch to the east and our old friends Kangteiga and Thamserku
grace the valley below us. We climb a small pass, and eventually reach Upper
Pangboche, where we'll wander the old alleys and take a peek inside one of the
four oldest gompas (monasteries), approximately 500 years old, in the Khumbu.
Contouring high above the newer (Lower) Pangboche, we pass a high mani wall,
some memorial chortens and the school before dropping down to our lodge in Lower
Pangboche. It's a lovely
village to stop in for the evening,
with views across the river to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp and the old
airstrip at Mingbo. We stay at the last lodge of Pangboche village, Sonam Lodge, owned by
Lhakpa's brother and sister-in-laws, Gyurme & Nima Lhamo, who also own the
newly built Ama Dablam Support Lodge a few hours up the Mingbo Valley. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners that we will meet
along the way who has summitted Everest many time. From the three-sided windows
of the dining room, we will be treated to a sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest,
Lhotse and Nuptse.

Day 8- Trek to Dingboche 4300m
A short day since we are gaining altitude, so we enjoy the beautiful walk. Leaving Pangboche on the left side of the mani wall, we trek along a rocky trail to tiny Somare and then along wide yak trails past the intersection to Pheriche (the HRA health post is there) and down to the river, where we cross on a small, wooden stream to reach the scree hillside leading to Dingboche, another old Sherpa village and the upper limits of the permanently settled villages. The lower half of Dingboche is a line of trekking lodges, while the upper half is still local Sherpa dwellings, fields, rock walls and yak enclosures, reminiscent of what all Sherpa villages were like years ago. Above us, an old Buddhist hermitage called Nangar Dzong, the summer meditation place of Lama Sangwa Dorje, sits nestled in the hillside, and there is a ridge on a high peak called Dolma Ri, topped with prayer flags, to climb for those with extra energy. Look on top of the peak for the eagle, or 'lak', perched there. We'll bed down for the night at Shar Khumbu Resort, one of the nicest and newest lodges in the region, owned by our friends Ang Cherring and his wife Ang Lhamo, who also own Himalayan Lodge in Gorak Shep.
You'll have the option for a more difficult hike to Dingboche via Ama Dablam Base Camp, where Nima Lhamo
runs the Ama Dablam Support Lodge. It's a two and a half hour walk up to the
base camp, and considerably longer on a negligible trail to get to Dingboche, so
only those feeling extra fit should attempt this. The guide will talk over the two
options in the evening, and people can chose which they like.
Day 9 - Dingboche
We've got a peak for you to climb today to get your ready for Island Peak, Dolma Ri, so enjoy the views! The extra acclimitization day will help with your ascent of Island Peak ...

Day 10 - Trek to Lobuche 4935m
After breakfast, we'll crest the chorten-topped ridge to the west of Dingboche and traverse the plateau for another
three hours, looking down on the trail to the Cho La Pass
and Dzongla. Walking along the flat, grassy grazing pastures, we pass the summer
'doksa', or yak-herding settlement, of Dusa before heading down to
the stony river coming from the Khumbu Valley, and crossing it on
a small bridge. A quick five minutes up the hill and we arrive at
Thugla and Tsering Lhakpa's Yak Lodge, probably the most genuine alpine
lodge in the Khumbu. And it's worth a trek up to Thugla just to meet
Tsering, who often takes out his Tibetan 'damnye' to play some traditional
Tibetan songs. We'll have lunch at Thugla before continuing up.
From Thugla, it's straight up the steep,
yak-trodden trail to the memorials to the many climbers who have died
attempting one of the many peaks in the area (including Babu Chiri
and Scott Fischer's). The Sherpas call this place Chukpi Lhare, meaning
'wealthy persons' kharka'. Check the mountain views behind you when
you reach the memorial crest, they're spectacular. Next, we head up-valley
towards Lobuche, where we stay the night at the Eco Lodge.
The views from the edge of the glacier down valley are superb, almost
more so as the clouds move up the valley, so don't miss an afternoon
walk up to the ridge with your camera. At Lobuche, almost 5000 meters,
it is especially important to take it easy, stay hydrated and get
plenty of rest.

Day 11 - Trek to Gorak Shep 5180m (Kala Pattar)
We leave Lobuche early, trekking up a rocky yak trail on the right
side of the Khumbu Glacier towards Gorak Shep, a walk of about three
hours. The walk isn't difficult, but there are a few hills to crest,
and we'll feel the altitude. The last stretch of the trail snakes
up and down glacial scree, and just before Gorak Shep we get a view
of Everest. Gorak Shep, with Kala Pattar just to the left, is a welcome
sight; the Himalayan Lodge has expanded, the rooms are lovely, the
toilets are inside and the dining room is always lively and warm.
The food is even good, quite a feat at 5180 meters, many days walk
from the markets! To the east of Gorak Shep, Nuptse looms magnificently
above us, now a triangular rock face which turns pink with the evening
light.
We'll climb the 5645 meter Kala Pattar today if
the weather is clear, a two-hour climb to the rocky summit; from the top, we have in-your-face
views of the 7000 and 8000 meter giants Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and
Pumori as well as many other peaks on the Nepal Tibet border. For
the remainder of the day, rest, rest and lots of water!

Day 12 - Lobuche (Everest Base Camp)
Those who are interested can hike to Everest Base Camp at 5365 meters,
a 5-6 hour round-trip walk along a glacial ridge, and then right onto
the groaning glacier itself. Just before the Base Camp we will pass
the helicopter that crashed a few years ago, now adorned with Buddhist
prayer flags. A reminder of the fragility of life amongst these high
peaks ...
Rob Hall's memorial makes a nice side-trip
heading back down to Gorak Shep. We'll head back down to Lobuche and stay the night at the Eco Lodge after our Everest Base Camp hike.

Day 13 - Trek to Chhukhung 4750m
W e have two options today, to hike around the valley to Chhukhung or to cross the Kongma La. The pass is very arduous going up from Lobuche so discuss with the guide before making this decision. The total time from Lobuche up the Kongma La (5540m) and back down to Chhukung is 7 hours. To get to the pass you'll have to cross the Khumbu glacier, an other worldy setting, and then ascend and descend the high lateral morraine on the opposite side of the valley. Then a hard, steep climb on scree to the top of the pass, which is adorned with prayer flags. Great mountain panoramas from the top, and again Makalu stands out. On route down you'll pass the Kongma Lakes and
two diferent base camps for Pokalden peak. From here it's a straightforward trail to Chhukhung, contouring around many hillsides. Note the Tibetan Snowcock ('kongma') along the trail.
The other option is equally spectacular perhaps, but not quite as difficult. The length of day is approximately the same with a stop for lunch at Thugla. You'll hike back down the valley past the memorials to Thugla, and then cross the high plateau back to Dingboche. From here it's a new trail, a lovely hike up the sparkling Imja Khola, quickly gaining altitude. Cross a few small bridges once past the small herding hut just before Chhukhung, a seasonal herding settlement nestled under Ama Dablam, Lhotse, the Nuptse wall, Peak 38 and Island Peak to name just a few. The Chhukhung Resort, run by the industrious Chunti Sherpa, is a lovely lodge with sunny, new rooms and a warm sunroom with views, perfect for peak-gazing in the afternoon. Sunsets are sublime, so get out on the nearby moraine with your cameras ...

Day 14 - Trek to Island Peak Base Camp
Practice for your climb of Island Peak by trekking up Chhukhung Ri, a climbing peak with two summits, the higher at about 5530m. From the summit, the views of Makalu in particular are awesome. It's a round-trip climb of 3+ hours, more if you climb to the second summit to the trekker's right of the chorten-topped saddle. After lunch back at the lodge it's time to head north. It's a beautiful hike from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp, up the rolling valley, very central Tibetan in style,trekking on the ridges of the terminal morraine. En route you'll pass grassy grazing pastures on the undulating trail, continuing past Imja Tal (lake) to your campsite. It's a four hour walk but you're gaining altitude so trek slowly and enjoy the great scenery.

15 - Climb Island Peak (6173m). Return to Base Camp
Be ready for a long (8-10+) hour day as your qualified Sherpa guide leads you from Base Camp, up the knife-edged ridge to the summit of Island Peak. Enjoy the amazing panorama of 8000 meter peaks before retracing your steps back to Base Camp. Exhausted, crash in your tent and the staff will bring steaming cups of chai around. Congratulations!
16 - Trek to Chhukhung
This is one of the least trekked and most spectacular valleys, so you'll have a chance to enjoy it back at the lodge in Chhukhung, and time to recover from the climb.

Day 17 - Trek to Tengboche 4000m
After a 1 1/2 hour walk back down the Chhukhung Valley to Dingboche, you'll continue
along the main trail back to Pangboche. Trekking further down the valley, you leave Pangboche by passing by the numerous trekking lodges and shops of Lower Pangboche and exiting the town through the open chorten (kane). You'll descend, on a beautiful and well-worn trail lined with ancient mani walls and whitewashed chortens with Bouddha eyes, down to the Imja Khola far below. After crossing the river on a new metal bridge (look below to see the old bridge), you hike on wide yak-trails through the hamlet of Devoche, passing ancient, moss-covered mani stones and the ani gompa (nunnery) of Devoche on the right. Stop for a peek into this old monastery, the equally ancient looking nuns often perform mid-day pujas. Soon after passing the nunnery you will pass the few small lodges of Devoche and then ascend a relatively steep, switchbacking trail through a dense rhododendron forest for a good half an hour to reach Tengboche (4000 meters), backed by the massive wall of Kangtega and well-known for its large monastery, Tengboche Gompa. Tengboche is the largest monastic community in the Everest region and one of the
Khumbu's most important monasteries. Take some time to visit Tengboche Gompa before dinner; they often have a late-afternoon puja.

Day 18 Trek to Namche
First thing in the morning you'll brave the steep, hour-long descent on a dusty, hill-side trail to Phunki Tenga. From here, cross the Dudh Koshi on a new
bridge and head back up steeply through pine forests, past small local settlements, to Tashi and Lhakpa's Amadablam Lodge
at Kyangjuma. You will probably stop for a scenic lunch on the terrace, gazing out on the majestic Ama Dablam. Don't miss the shopping; Tashi is famous for her jewelry which she also sells in Colorado in the summertime. From here, it's an easy hour and a half contour around many brushy hillsides to reach Namche, the Tibetan market, the Moonlight lodge, hot showers,
good food and a glass of wine or a cold beer.

Day 19 - Trek to Lukla 2850m
You'll have an early start as you have a long day ahead of you to get back to Lukla. The descent of that long hill that you plodded
up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy on the way down. After one last steep hill to the National
Park gate, you reach the welcome sight of Monjo. Afterwards, it's just
another hour back to Phakding along the same trails that you trekked up a few
weeks ago. You will finish the trek
back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Eco-Paradise Lodge where everyone stays in
the new en-suite rooms. In the evening you will have yet
another Sherpa feast (after hot showers) and perhaps try some of Dawa's famous
Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room
is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return
there after the trek. Ang Pasang works for the airport, so you are in good hands
for your flight out the next morning.
Day 20 - Fly to Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as you fly out of
Lukla to Kathmandu early; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is
just as exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed
by bad weather, so we have an extra day in Kathmandu just in case.
In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu
Guest House, long, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped
at the laundry. In the evening, you can get together for the best wood-oven
pizza in town at Fire & Ice, followed later by coffee and drinks
later at one of Thamel's many cafes ...

Day 21 - Kathmandu
A free day in Kathmandu for shopping, some sun in the garden of the
guest house, shopping, cafe-ing or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for
some 'koras' to give thanks for our safe journey back from the mountains.
Sights you missed during the first few days in Kathmandu, you can
catch today. This
is also the extra day in case of delayed flights out of Lukla.
Day 22 - Farewell
Sadly, we send you off to the airport for your flight home ...
Extra Days in Kathmandu
If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunrise/sunset mountain panoramas, visits to interesting temple villages such as Changu Narayan, a few days at Barahi Hotel in Pokhara or a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.
NAMASTE & TASHI DELEK
